This article will explain how to diagnose a heat-related issues for Whirpool Duet Gas Dryer (model GGW9250SU0) that had problems with low or no heat.
You can go here to see how I replaced fixed my Whirlpool gas dryer by replacing the thermal fuse and gas valve coils.
- Small and medium sized Phillips and Flat screw drivers
- 1/4″ socket + mini ratchet (Don’t have one? Pick up one of these (SKIL 009-106-SKL 40-Piece Mini Stubby);
- Phillips drill bit
- Digital Multimeter (DMM) – I don’t recommend using cheap $10 multimeters from Radioshack because more often than not, these will give you erroneous readouts. Although I did use one such cheapo analog unit in the beginning, I have since upgraded to a DMM. If you do not have one, you can buy a decent one for around $25 like this one (Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter). Not as good as a Fluke units ($150+) but as a home DIYer, I simply did not need all those bells and whistles found in a Fluke unit.
- Test Lead Kit – Why do you need it? Though most multimeters come with a standard set of probes, I found that certain in-place component testings inside appliances require contortionist acts. This is where alligator clips come in handy (if you don’t already own one, I recommend this (Extech TL809 Electronic Test Lead Kit))
- Disposable baby wipes – Don’t laugh; you can clean some amazingly tight spaces with baby wipes and a stick!
During one week in cold November, my wife complained that our dryer was taking too much time in drying clothes. She said the drying time was so slow, it would sometimes require 3 to 4 cycles to dry a small load with clothes staying relatively cool.
To investigate, I removed the toe kick panel (Fig. 1) and observed while trying different drying cycles. The only thing that stood out was that a glow stick (i.e. lighting match) would repeatedly come on for about 4 times without being able to light the gas.
So basically at this point, I had a very expensive gas dryer, air drying my clothes, wasting lots of electricity and time.
STEP 0 – Check lint screen and exhaust pipe for excessive lint / debris / obstructions;
STEP 1 – Activate the diagnostic test mode (note: ironically, diagnostic test cannot detect faults with certain components like thermal fuse, gas valve coils, etc. These components need to be tested directly with a multimeter).
- Dryer is plugged in and all indicators are off;
- Press the following button sequence within 5 seconds: More Time –> Less Time –> More Time –> Less Time
- At this point, all indicator on the coles are illuminated with “88” showing in the “Estimated Time Remaining” display. This confirms that the test mode has been entered successfully.
- Display Fault / Error Codes:
- Code PF – Power Failure has occurred while the dryer was runninng. Press START to continue the cycle or press PAUSE/CANCEL to clear the display;
- Code E1 – Thermistor Open; Execute Test #3a;
- Code E2 – Thermistor Shorted; Execute test #3a;
- Code E3 – User Interface or Software Mismatch; Execute Test #5;
- Moisture Sensor Test – Locate two metal strips on teh face of the lint screen housing; Bridge these strips with wet cloth; If a beep is heard and a software revision number is displayed on the console, the sensor is OK (confirmed with my dryer);
STEP 2 – Diagnostic tests in STEP 1 did not indicate any fault so I moved on to the next troubleshooting steps;
STEP 3 – Verified that natural gas was present;
STEP 4 – Proceed to checking wiring harness:
- Unplug the dryer from the power source;
- Shutoff natural gas;
- Remove the toe kick panel to access various sensors (Use a 1/4″ socket + ratchet to remove two small sheetmetal screws);
- Visually identify thermal fuse, thermistor, and heater assembly (high limit thermostat, flame sensor and gas valve coils) locations
- Check all connections for broken or loose wires, failed terminals (corrosion or black heat marks), or wires not pressed into connector far enough;
- Check for corrosion on connectors by disconnecting and reconnecting wires
- Look at top of connectors to check for broken or loose wires
- If corroded terminals are found, use emery or fine sandpaper to carefully remove it without damaging the wire sheathing;
STEP 5 – No issues with visual inspections fro STEP 4; proceeding to resistance check (power cord must be unplugged from outlet);
STEP 6 – Mark the thermal fuse wiring harness (so we know which wires go into which terminals) then remove thermal fuse, using 1/4″ socket. My multimeter reading came in at infinite resistance (a.k.a. open circuit) so this part NEEDS TO BE REPLACED;
STEP 7 – To test the gas valve coils (there are two coils; one nearest to the toe kick panel has 3 prongs; the other has 2 prongs), I marked and removed all wiring harness and measured the resistance across terminals. Although the resistance readings fell in the normal (but higher) range, but I decided to replace them because they actually have moving parts inside;
STEP 8 – At this point, I was fairly confident that thermal fuse and gas valve coils were causing my dryer to not heat properly, so I placed an order with AppliancePartsPros.com;
Depending on your situation, you may need to purchase some parts listed here.
Although these parts are available in multiple places, I highly recommend AppliancePartsPros.com because they provide 365 day unconditional refund policy where you can return unused parts for a 100% full refund (you are still responsible for return shipping).
I have had no trouble returning “just in case” extra parts and receiving prompt refunds.
- Wire Harness, Gas Valve, Part # 3401850
- Door Switch, Part # 8519323
- Wire and Door Switch Assembly, Part # 8283288
- Thermal Fuse, Part # 3392519
- Gas Burner Assembly, Part # 8318276
- High Limit Thermostat, Part # 3403140
- Thermistor – NTC 10k Ohms, Part # 3976615
- Wire Harness, Moisture Sensor, Part # 3406653
- Gas Valve Coils, Part # 279834
My next article, How to Replace Thermal Fuse and Gas Valve Coils will show how I was able to fix my Whirlpool Gas Dryer with no heat problem.
I hope you found this article to be useful and I would love your comments. If you are interested in more DIY articles, I invite you to sign up for my newsletter. Just look for a signup form on the upper right hand side of your screen. Thanks!
- Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer (Covers Models GGW9200L & GEW9200L) – Service Manual
- Whirlpool Duet Sport Gas/Electric Dryer (Covers Models WED8300SW, WED8500SR, WGD8300SW & WGD8500SR) – Service Manual
- Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer – Tech Sheet (part no. 8558273)
- How to use a multimeter – Youtube Video 0:52 mark
21 thoughts on “Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer – How to Fix Low Heat / No Heat problem”
Hi Kevin. I found your article very informative. I have exact same dryer (GGW9250PTO). There is a smell of gas when I open the dryer door after dryer has been sitting and not running for a while. Which part would most likely be failing and need replaced in this case? Thanks.
Thanks for your kind words. I had a similar problem with dryer as well. Once I replaced my Gas Coil Valves (they are inexpensive; here is a link at Amazon), the smell went away.
Best I can tell, the coil valves wind or unwind to let the gas into the firing chamber. These thin metal coils wear out over time, not sealing out the gas.
I wrote an article on how to change it here (https://allthumbsdiy.com/appliances/whirlpool-duet-gas-dryer-how-to-replace-thermal-fuse-and-gas-valve-coils).
Let me know if you have any questions.
I HAVE AN OLDER MODEL WHIRLPOOL GAS DRYER, THE HEATER COILS IN MY UNIT ARE BOTH 2-WIRE EACH, I DO NOT HAVE A 3-WIRE COIL!!!
I WAS THINKING OF REPLACING THE TWO (2) OF THEM, AS I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE UNIT STOPPING HEATING AFTER SEVERAL MINUTES OF DRYING TIME, AND NOT RESTARTING AGAIN BUT THE DRUM KEEPS TURNING WITH NO HEAT TO COMPLETE THE “TIMER” SETTING.
What is the model number? You initially said it was a gas dryer but heater coils are found in electric dryers?
If you have heat initially but it is shutting down, I would probably look at sensors that may be broken first…
Wow! There are NO moving parts in the gas valve coils. They are simply electro-magenets. The gas valve assembly has internal moving valves activated by the magnetic coils. If a coil is shorted or very high ohms it can cause no heat or no heat hot after 10-15 of use.
The actual valve can also stick or malfunction. Your problem was most likely the thermal fuse. This can be caused by clogged or flexible vent pipe.
My Whirlpool Duet gas dryer, Model GGW9250PW2 is not heating. The solenoid clicks, ignitor glows, burner lights for four seconds and shuts off for about one minutes, then goes through the same cycle. I ran the diagnostics & checked that the moisture sensor works. Ducting was dirty, so removed, cleaned & reinstalled.
First, you can read the article titled Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer – How to Replace Thermal Fuse and Gas Valve Coils.
A quick recap is to check the thermal sensor by the exhaust vent. a quick test see is to:
0. unplug the appliance first;
1. there are two wires attached to the thermal fuse/sensor; mark two wires and their original positions. for example, you can apply a piece of black electrical tape to one wire and note its position;
2. disconnect both wires from the sensor and tape them together, making sure metal tabs are touching each other;
3. plug-in the appliance and turn on the dryer. if the dryer is working, you need to replace the thermal sensor/fuse. my article has a link to the correct ones; thermal sensors/fuses don’t last like they used to, so make sure to buy some extras to avoid paying shipping down the road;
If these steps do not work, you will need to replace another sensor in the back of the dryer closer to the flame);
Let me know how you make out
PS. Crossing two wires is for TESTING only; bypassing a thermal sensor (which is a safety feature) is NOT A PERMANENT fix; using this method other testing will increase the likelihood of fire.
We have a whirlpool duet gas dryer-WGD9200SQ1
I have replaced the flame sensor and the thermal cutoff.
The glow plug heats up. The flame now lights for 10-15 seconds then goes out. After a couple of minutes the cycle repeats itself.
Could it be my thermal cutoff?
thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. Thermal fuse normally allows electricity to flow between two wires (good), but when a dryer gets too hot, thermal fuse breaks or opens up the circuit (bad).
Since you have replaced your thermal fuse already, I would first TEMPORARILY bypass the thermal fuse to see if your dryer works. Read this article here (https://allthumbsdiy.com/appliances/no-heat-again-for-my-whirlpool-duet-gas-dryer) to see how I tested it.
If the dryer works with this bypass, that means your thermal fuse broke. a frequent break in thermal fuse can be caused by blocked exhaust vent or a faulty thermostat.
Just keep in mind that thermal fuse protects you against appliance overheating/fire so make sure to install a new thermal fuse once the test is complete. You SHOULD NOT operate your dryer without this safety device!
Thanks for the great do it yourself article. My problem was the gas valve coil with the 3 prongs on it. Tested with a multimeter I borrowed from work and from prong 1 to 2 had no reading. Ordered the 2 valve coil package from Walmart of all places. Genuine Whirlpool part for 10 bucks. Installed, and presto, my wife thinks I’m a genius.. Saved a bunch thanks to you.
It’s so great to hear that you were able to solve your dryer problem and save $$$! Since the original article, I had to replace several thermal fuses so if you happen to catch them on sale, make sure to get several at the same time (shipping cost is too high for individual purchases).
Great job and thanks for letting us know. Happy New Year!
This looks like a very informative page that you have put together!
I’m currently looking at making my gas dryer a boat anchor, as I am not having a fair amount of success.
I purchased the unit used, and was told that it wwas setup for LP, and ready to go.
When all hooked up, however, all I get is a rotating drum, and the ignitor attempting to light, but doesn’t seem to be getting the gas (supply) to ignite???
I just installed both coils new about an hour ago. … ?
I have also attempted jumping out the thermal fuse?
At a loss for the next step? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again for the page.
Did you check the LP connection to make sure that it has the correct NG-to-LP adapter?
When the ignitor is clicking, do you smell any gas?
I don’t think the thermal fuse bypass will impact the initial lighting of the gas so maybe try another LP tank and/or LP adapter?
I’ve replaced the dryer igniter,coil-valve,gas-valve,flame senser,thermal fuse and control board in my wgd9200sq1 duet dryer. Still no heat. Nothing! Any suggestion? Please!
Wow, that is a lot of stuff you replaced! Have you checked to make sure that you are getting natural gas into your unit? If not, you may need to examine the connection to make sure that there is no debris inside.
Also, have you observed what happens when you attempt to start the unit?
YES I HAVE CHECKED THE GAS LINE. I’VE ALSO WATCHED FOR IGNITION. NOTHING HAPPENS
PERHAPS I SHOULD CHECK THE PRESSURE OF THE GAS LINE? JUST REPLACED THERMISTOR,
WIRE HARNESS,MOISTURE SENSER
Other than BBQ propane tank, I have never dealt with an LPG appliance but it sounds like there is an issue with gas supply.
I know with my natural gas dryer, I have had several debris caught inside the flex gas line (hose in between the wall and the appliance) that reduced the gas pressure so maybe you can check the same?
HAVE A DUET ELECTRIC DRYER RUNS ABOUT ONE AND A HALF MINUTES HEATS ALSO
THEN CODE E1 SHOWES AND IT STOPS TECH ALREADY CHANGED THE CONTROL BOARD
ON THE TOP OF DRYER I CHANGED THE THERMISTER AND FUSE STILL DOES THE SAME THING
@ Hi Abby-
Did the technician do anything else to solve your problem? Simply replacing the board and charging labor and walking away does not seem right.
My Whirlpool Duet Dryer so I do not have direct experience troubleshooting your model. However, I believe both versions are quite similar in terms of temperature sensors.
Please note that Whirlpool Duet dryers have multiple temperature sensors. This page describes various sensors:
This troubleshooting step depends on the level of your DIY skills, but what I have done in the past is to TEMPORARILY bypass the thermistor to see if the dryer works longer than 1-2 min (re-read my post to see how I did it).
***WARNING – BYPASSING A THERMISTOR IS NOT A PERMANENT SOLUTION. IF THE BYPASS IS LEFT IN PLACE AND YOU USE YOUR DRYER, YOUR DRYER CAN CAUSE FIRE !! Always re-install the thermistor after completing the testing. ****
If the dryer heats properly, then you know that something is causing excess heat which is melting the metal inside the thermistor (as designed) to stop the over-heating dryer.
In that case, the first thing I would do is to clean out the vent. Vents tend to get caked with lints overs the years and the restrictive air flow tends to burn out those thermistors quite often. I am not sure how your vent is configured but use something like this Deflector Dryer Duct Cleaning brush (click on the link to see it).
Otherwise, you may need to move on to the next thermistor / sensor to see if that particular one is working properly.
Hope this helps!
Hi, model is WED8500SR. I had gas with my last dryer. When I got this dryer it was electric so we tapped the gas off to use it. Everything was working fine until the day the dryer cycle wouldn’t turn on. Your diagnostic test directions are precise and to the point. My dryer said 88 and no other code. I did push the start button opened the door with a beep to open and a beep to close it, yeh !
Wasn’t sure if the thermal fuse CHECK is in the same place as the gas Dryer? Any suggestions would help. TY.
This is a great blog!
I have a similarly related issue, but wanted to pass it by you before buying any parts. I have a WGD95HEDW0 Duet. The issue I am having is that the temperatures for any heating mode appear to be overheating. My wife was complaining that the dryer is getting too hot and has been running every load using extra low. I decided to test the temperatures by running the dryer in each mode to see how hot it was getting and testing the cutoff temperatures by measuring them with my digital trusty oven thermometer. I ran each mode and ran about 4 cycles of heat on and heat off to allow system to equilibrate. I then recorded my results below. All tests below were performed in an empty dryer and in timed mode only foe each heat mode. Here are my results for each heating mode with Minimum Heat on temp °F / Heat Cut Off temp °F respectively.
Air Only: No heat as expected
Extra Low: 94°F / 135°F
Low: 106°F / 162°F
Medium: 114°F / 182°F
High: 122°F / 204°F
It appears that the heat cycling process is about the same in all modes. However, the cut off temperatures appear to be very high but not so high that the safety High Heat sensor is shutting down the dryer. The heat would stay on ~15-20 seconds after the low heat limit was reached and shutting off heat when it reached the upper limits of each mode. The first cycle appeared to have a higher temperature limit in all modes, but then appeared to equilibrate after the second heat cycle
If I had to place a guess as to what the issue may be without running the ohm test, I would say the thermistor may be the culprit. I have my dryer ducts cleaned annually and always clean my lint filter between loads.
Do you have a link for the WGD95HEDW0 service manual, or do you think the Whirlpool Duet Sport Gas/Electric Dryer (Covers Models WED8300SW, WED8500SR, WGD8300SW & WGD8500SR) will have the same specs as the WGD95HEDW0? I am having trouble locating this manual without spending $15-20.
Do you know what the temperature limits should be for the different heat modes and/or the spread between Minimum Heat on temp °F / Heat Cut Off temp °F ?
Do you agree that the thermistor replacement is a good starting place?