The bulk of energy loss in a home comes from dozens of small holes, cracks and gaps inside and outside that allow air leakage so sealing air leaks with insulating spray foam sealants is one of the most practical and economical ways to block heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
Small foam cans come in two basic varieties. Latex (open cell) or Polyurethane (closed cell) foams. If you would like to read more in detail about functional differences between the open vs closed polyurethane cells, go here.
In this article, we will review those ubiquitous Great Stuff, DAPtex Touch ‘n Foam cans found at your local big box stores.
TIP: The nozzle quality on Great Stuff blue cans is very poor and calling their customer service gets you nowhere. My suggestion is to buy it at your local hardware store and keep the receipt handy so that you can return defective cans. For some reason, Great Stuff in red or black cans do not have this problem.
SIDE BY SIDE COMPARISON
| GreatStuff | DAPtex Plus | Touch n Foam | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foam Type | Polyurethane | Latex | Polyurethane |
| Cell Type | Closed | Open | Closed |
| Absorb Water? | No | Yes | No |
| Size | 12 oz | 12 oz | 12 oz |
| Price | $ 5.90 | $ 4.99 | $ 9.81 |
| Part / SKU | 175437 | 18836 | 4001044000 |
| Reusable? | No | Yes | Yes |
| Cleanup | Solvent | Soap and water | Solvent |
| Latest Price | Amazon | Amazon | Amazon |
GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door
If you’re installing windows, doors or skylights and you’re not using GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door foam sealant, you’re probably unaware of a faster, cheaper air-sealing solution. In fact, there are some window and door manufacturers that have tested and endorsed GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door. It is a minimal-expanding foam with a low pressure build that forms a durable, airtight and water-resistant seal between a window or door frame and its rough opening without bowing or bending the window frames. It’s the original window and door draft stopper.
- Proprietary low-pressure formula designed not to bow bend window and door frames
- Ideal for filling sealing other areas where low-pressure flexible foam is desirable
- Provides real insulation value which complements energy efficiency of the window or door. Greater insulating value than chinked fiberglass or caulk
- Soft, pliable foam is forgiving, easier to remove if gap is overfilled. Cured foam can be stuffed back into the gap without trimming
- One 12 oz. can foams up to six average sized residential windows (36′ x 60″, 3/8″ wide gap, and 1″ deep)
- Repels/deflects water
- Tack free in 8 minutes; Trims within 1 hour
- Flexible foam permits expansion and contraction
- Paintable, sandable and stainable
- Yellow colored foam
DAPtek Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant
In its natural form, latex is a milky white liquid tapped from the trunks of rubber trees (hevea brasiliensis)and then combined with water to create a thick suspension. There have been reports of individuals experiencing allergenic reactions attributed to exposure to natural latex products. For the most part, these cases allegedly involve dermatological contact with latex gloves, clothing or bed covers. According to companies involved in the production of latex foam products for cushioning applications, the vast majority of these cases are dermatitis related and occur primarily with people in the medical industry who wear natural latex gloves as protection over a long period of time.
Natural proteins from the rubber tree have been attributed by health professionals as the primary cause of allergic reactions. Some companies advise that if an individual is known to have allergies to plant antigens, they should avoid contact with natural latex based products. Synthetic latex does not contain natural proteins that can cause an allergic reaction and so synthetic rubber products provide options for individuals having concerns about exposure to natural latex.
DAPtex® Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant is a latex-based product used for filling voids and sealing large
gaps. Designed to meet the tough standards demanded for professional window & door installations while
offering the easiest-to-use technology for DIYers. When applied properly, this patented formula helps reduce
energy loss and damage that can be caused by air, rain and pest infiltration.• DAPtex® Plus will not over expand like polyurethane foams. DAPtex® Plus will expand to 90% of its full
size immediately upon application. Full expansion will be achieved within 20-30 minutes, depending on
bead size, temperature and humidity.
• Proven not to bow, buckle or distort window and door frames.
• Tack free in 10 minutes. A one inch bead fully cures in 24 hours depending on bead size, temperature and
humidity.
• Toolable and moldable while wet. Do not trim or remove skin of the cured foam.
• Flexible when cured.
• Cured foam can be painted with latex paint.
• Easy soap and water clean-up when wet.
• When fully cured the product should be firm to the touch and withstand moderate pressure.
Surface PreparationDIRECTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS: READ DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY INFORMATION BEFORE USE!
1. Product is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE WHILE DISPENSING! Refer to label and Material Safety Data
Sheet and extinguish all ignition sources during use and cure.
2. To avoid risk of electric shock when perimeter sealing electrical switches and outlet boxes, disconnect
power during application of product and until product is fully cured. *When perimeter sealing switches or
electrical boxes, do not fill box.
3. Wear safety glasses and use in well-ventilated areas.
4. Clean and remove grease, dirt and debris from application area.
5. Shake can vigorously for 1 minute before use.
6. Push straw into nozzle located above the trigger.
7. Remove safety tab above trigger.
8. Apply at temperatures between 45°F -105ºF. The product should be above 60°F for optimum dispensing
rate.
9. Slowly dispense foam from can in upright position, filling cavity to 90% to allow for minimal expansion.
10. For best results, tool or shape while wet. Do not trim or remove skin of the cured foam.
11. For exterior applications, foam must be painted with a quality exterior latex paint after fully cured.
12. If storing for reuse, remove straw and clean it and nozzle with warm water. Cured material can be removed
from nozzle or straw with a pipe cleaner or paper clip.
13. Not recommended for use at or below grade, or for closed cavities. For gaps more than 2” deep, use multiple
layers of 1”-2” each.• Seals, insulates and weatherproofs
• Easy water clean-up
• Won’t over-expand
• Tough and durable
• Conserves energy to save money
• No paint thinner required
• Water resistant
• Paintable
• Toolable and moldable
• Reusable, non-clogging applicator
• Interior /ExteriorClean Up and Storage:
Uncured foam can be cleaned up with soap and water. Excess cured sealant can be scraped off.Packaging: Net Wt. 12oz (340g)
Color: White
UPC Number: 0 70798 18836 5, 0 70798 18822 8Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) – (English, Spanish, French) – If the link is broken, click here for English
Touch ‘n Foam NoWarp Window and Door Sealant
Touch ‘n Foam is a relative new player when compared with Great Stuff and DAPtex Plus.
NoWarp Window and Door Sealant from Convenience Products on Vimeo.
Touch ‘n Foam No Warp Window & Door Sealant is specially formulated for use around window and door frames. While it can be used as an all-purpose foam, This revolutionary expanding polyurethane foam is designed to seal and insulate without exerting pressure that can be detrimental to window or door frame stability.
This low pressure foam is actually self-venting which means that once it fills the void, the trapped CO2 leaves the product – unlike conventional polyurethane foam that may continue to expand and apply pressure. This is ideal for sensitive areas (like window and door frames where the gap can be sealed without bowing the frame – even if the area is overfilled with foam).
Touch ‘n Foam NoWarp Window & Door Sealant is specially formulated for use around window and door frames. While it can be used as an all-purpose foam, This revolutionary expanding polyurethane foam is designed to seal and insulate without exerting pressure that can be detrimental to window or door frame stability.This low pressure foam is actually self-venting which means that once it fills the void, the trapped CO2 leaves the product – unlike conventional polyurethane foam that may continue to expand and apply pressure. This is ideal for sensitive areas (like window and door frames where the gap can be sealed without bowing the frame – even if the area is overfilled with foam).
• Low pressure formula – guaranteed not to warp frames or jambs
• Fills and insulates better than fiberglass
• Stops drafts to minimize energy loss
• Creates a moisture barrier
• Fire retardant
• Meets ASTM E-84
• Item # 4001044000Material Safety Data Sheet – English, Spanish, French (if the link is broken, click here for the English version).
I’m looking to seal leaky window frames in an old house. Is this what I need to get done?
Hi Edna-
You need a low expansion foam specifically made for windows and doors. Out of the three I mentioned in the article, Dap and Great Stuff foams are generally available at Home Depot or Lowes retail stores. The job is not hard but it can get messy so I have some recommendations:
1. Wear a long sleeve shirt and a pair of grungy pants that you will not mind throwing out;
2. Wear an eye protection and latex gloves (foam is extremely sticky);
3. Have some paper bags and/or large garbage bags on hand to catch drips between application (paper bag allows you to wipe the ends of cleanly);
4. If you are using Dap (latex based), you will need to find a warm day or two so it can cure properly (Great Stuff can be applied in cold);
5. Have a package of baby wipes on hand. If you happen to drip some on the floor, you can use it to wipe if off the floor (if you drop a large dollop, LEAVE IT to cure then scrape or cut it off
6. If you are using Great Stuff (blue can), get as twice as much as you think you will need (save your receipt) as they still have not fixed those defective nozzle applicator tips (roughly 1 out 3 were defective in my experience).
Needless to say, if you have a rug or carpet, cover a large swath near the window.
BTW, the foam should be applied in between your house and window frames. You will need to remove the interior window molding to get at the space.
Hope this helps. Take some before and after pictures and let me know how you made out.
Good luck!
Kevin
Good stuff but have 1 can that is still full won’t come out and another half full and stop working. So wasted my money on 2 cans
@beverly-
If you saved your receipt, I would ask for your money back
I have an old can of the DapTex and have lost the plastic straw. Do I need to have a straw to use the sealant? It’s been a few years since I used the foam but was just curious as to how I can attempt to use the can again – without the straw… Thanks for your help.
@nancy-
I am going to assume that you are NOT referring to a refill can used in conjunction with a caulking gun.
Unfortunately, those cans with plastic straws have a very short life span because the foam near the straw will cure and will be almost impossible to get out. You can try a foam gun cleaner (Great Stuff 259205 12-Ounce Gun Cleaner
) but the cost of it is about the same as a brand new dap foam can.
hope this helps.
kevin
I want a product to seal around the hole of my gas supply pipe through the basement wall.Do I need to paint the outside part of the foam after it is cured? It won’t be directly exposed to rain.
@ Mike-
If the foam is exposed, you have to worry about the Sun exposure as it will degrade over time.
Also, what I found was that chipmunks and/or squirrels love to gnaw on that stuff. If I were you, I would try to use a cover plate (a.k.a. escutcheon or pipe flange).
This particular one is a slip on (not threaded) so you would need to slip it on the pipe before making any connections.
Hello Kevin,
I intend to insulate my interior rim joist area with rigid foam and spray foam. Seems to me that 200 linear ft is too big a job for 20 oz cans. Is there a larger format I can use?
Also, there is a rim joist area I cannot access from the interior. So, I’d like to address it from outside.
The exterior sheathing is cedar shingles. There is a void behind the place where the shingles overhang the rim joist, .I intend to fill this area with spray foam. It is not exposed to the sun. I expect the foam will not biodegrade. Am I correct?
Slightly off topic but this was the only (and great) expanding insulating foam review I could find.
I recently bought a 1965 vintage house in CO mountains at 7600 feet. Traditional frame construction. Many of the interior walls are freezing cold in the wirnter. I had an energy audit done and the infrared scans showed notable air leaks coming down the walls, both interior and exterior ones. There’s no attic to better insulate as the house has an “insulated” low-slope flat roof. That being the case, I was thinking of drilling a few holes at the top of the walls and spraying in the big gap expanding foam to block the airleaks. I understand that I can’t use the one part very highly expanding foams like Touch ‘n Foam MaxFill Maximum Expanding Sealant because they require mositure in the air to activate and cure and don’t work well behind walls, let alone walls in a dry climate..
I’ve successfully used used Great Stuff Big Gap expanding foam to insulate areas between the floor girders and concrete walls where I couldn’t get fiberglass insulation in. .
Comments, suggestions, and recommendations?
@pfwag-
I think I would first want to make sure that there is absolutely no moisture penetration before applying foam.
Has any one ever tried to sound insulate a hollow core door by drilling small holes and spraying some expanding foam into the hollow? Do you think it would damage or bow out the hollow core door?
@ David-
Most hollow core doors are not empty. Most of them have honeycomb lattices inside that is constructed with heavy stock cardboard so you would have to drill a lot of holes to fill each lattice.
Im familiar with poly foam.
Is latex foam easier to completely remove after it’s needed?
Tip:. When working with Great Stuff Poly foam and filling large voids, use a fine mist of water on the foam to allowing foam to continue expanding.
Exterior walls need greater protection because they are exposed to the outdoor elements. It is advised homeowners choose closed-cell high-density foam for exterior walls. Not only does it keep air and moisture out, but it also makes the exterior walls more structurally sound, adding strength to a home and making it more durable.
Thank you for sharing!
I see a lot of demonstrating pics of hands using greatstuff with can in upright position.
All I get is propellant unless can is upside down.
Hey Scott,
Most foam cans maybe used in the upright position for short duration. In general, yes, you are correct in that the can should be inverted for maximum foam output.