How to Fix a Broken Electric Chute on a John Deere 1330 SE Snowblower


One of the thing I love about my John Deere 1330se is that it comes with two rocker switches to control the chute rotation and chute deflector.

However, we need to expect that all electric components (especially ones that are exposed) operating in a wet and cold environment will most likely have issues at one point.

If you arrived on this via search engine, click here to visit my John Deere 1330se Snowthrower Resource page

Coupled with John Deere 1330se electrical system not having any fuses, other electrical problems, such as dim or non-lit headlights can mask the root cause of a problem.


  • Electric chute rotator switch fails to rotate to the left and/or to the right side


Replacement parts mentioned in this article should be applicable to these snowblower brands/models:

  • John Deere 1028E, 1330se, 1332pe, 1338pe
  • Simplicity L1730e
  • Murray 1330se


Rocker Switches house a button for operation that can be pressed on either end like a seesaw to connect or disconnect an electrical circuit. They are often used as ON/OFF switches on the main power supplies for electronic devices.

The name “rocker switch” comes from the rocking motion that the switch makes when the button is pressed and it is also sometimes called a seesaw switch.

The rocker used in JD 1330se consists of 6 wires in a floating ground where the middle 2 contact pads provide ground and power.

  • If your chute is rotating to one side but not the other, you can simply unplug and flip the bottom of the switch upside down to see if the problem gets reversed;
  • For example, let’s say that you are able to turn the chute to the left only but you can when the switch is flipped. This indicates that you have a faulty rocker;
  • However, if you still cannot turn to the left after flipping over the switch, you most likely have a bad motor (check my John Deere 1330se Resource page to look for a solution);


If you want the simplest solution, click here to just buy the genuine Briggs & Stratton Wire Harness Adapter kit # 11687904.


All current rocker switches, including non-OEM parts, come in a PACKARD / AMP style connector. The problem is that the receiving connector on your snowblower is the original Euro-Look 6 pronged female connector.

Briggs OEM kit comes with a proprietary adapter harness so that you can simply install your new rocker switch, plug in the harness in between the new rocker switch and the Euro-Look female connector. I spoke to Carling Technologies that this harness is ONLY AVAILABLE as part of the B&S kit and that it cannot be purchased separately anywhere else.

So if you purchase a non-OEM rocker switch with the PACKARD connector, you will have to rig up your own wiring adapter harness, which will probably involving cutting off the female adapter from the snow blower.


The contact pads inside can get dirty so sometimes simply wiggling them around works. You can also unplug / plug the wiring harness from the bottom sockets may work.

If none of these work, you can try cleaning it with the steps in the step-by-step guide 2 sections below.

If that fails, you can either replace it with a new momentary (not maintained) rocker switch from Briggs & Stratton (OEM) or 3rd party rocker switch from Coles-Hersee, which is now part of Little Fuse, a non-OEM part.

Even though my switches are working, I picked up a couple spares during the off-season, just in case I am unable to fix it next time.

What to do if you are looking at a blizzard and your switch does not work (even after cleaning) and you can’t get a replacement? The rocker switch used for the chute deflector is the same switch (minus the label) so if your chute deflector works, set it to about 45 degrees then swap it with the chute rotator switch. You will not be able to adjust the deflector but at least you will be able to use your snow blower


Regardless of OEM vs non-OEM replacement parts, you need to make sure that you buy a momentary rocker switch. You will see a lot of knockoffs that look very similar and are significantly cheaper. These cheapo parts will most likely cause more trouble than your cost savings.

Since Cole Hersee was founded in 1924, they have been a pioneer and leader in the development of heavy-duty electrical products for the vehicle industry, and have earned a reputation for quality and value. Cole Hersee has collaborated on many basic industry standards and is a preferred supplier of over 2,000 dependable vehicle products and accessories.

Littelfuse acquired Cole Hersee in 2010 to offer their customers a more extensive portfolio of products in the commercial vehicle market.

Incidentally, the wiring harness adapter that is part of the Briggs and Stratton kit (part # 1687904) is made by Carling Technologies.


The main cost difference between OEM and non-OEM is that OEM parts comes with a instructional label imprinted on the switch. Non-OEM replacement part is generic and does NOT come with any imprinted labels.

One very important note about the a non-OEM Cole-Hersee rocker switch – the rear connector layout is 2×6 pinout in a rectangular shape. John Deere’s wiring harness connector is in the old style, 6 pinout in an oval shape. What this means is that you either need to purchase a harness adapter or splice the wires together yourself.

Briggs & Stratton, OEM
– Original equipment part; has instruction label imprinted on the switch
– Buy from Amazon (click here)
– Part # 11687904, UPC 47282108871, Momentary Rocker Switch
– Comes with a wire harness adapter kit, sold under B&S brand
Cole-Hersee (Little Fuse), NON-OEM
– 3rd party equipment replacement part; DOES NOT have instruction label imprinted on the switch
– Buy from Amazon (click here);
– Buy from eBay (click here;
– Part# M-58031-09 (bulk packaging), Part# M-58031-09-BX (individual packaging), Momentary Rocker Switch
– Detailed info: tech spec 1, tech spec 2, schematics (PDF)
Briggs & Stratton – DISCONTINUED
– Part # 1754865YP, sold under Murray, Snapper, Simplicity, B&S brands;
Briggs & Stratton – DISCONTINUED
– Part # 1752240YP, sold under Simplicity, B&S brands;
Briggs & Stratton – DISCONTINUED
– Part # 1737378YP, sold under B&S brand;

I chose to repair the old switch but I did also purchase one as a spare. Replacement steps are identical to the removal process outlined below (but simpler).


  • Flat-head screwdriver;
  • 320 Grit sandpaper; – if this is an emergency repair and you do not have a piece of sandpaper, you can use a small flathead screwdriver to scrape
  • Couple of Q-tips;
  • No. 2 pencil with eraser
  • Noalox® Anti-oxidant Compound; – if this is an emergency repair, you can skip this product (but I highly recommend and apply it to internal contact pads)
One of the biggest contributor to breaking a snow blower is a snow build-up on various gears, motors, propeller and a chute. Anytime a motor is working harder than normal, you can create a hazardous electrical overload situations, which can shorten component life so I use a silicone spray before, during and after season. You can read more about it here


  • Disconnect the 6 wire harness socket from the rocker switch terminal by gently rocking it side to side;
  • Make a note of the bottom housing. Mine head a green sticker but if you do not have one, tape on a small note to indicate the right and left side;
  • Please note – there are two retainer springs that are glued in; they may fall out as you remove the bottom housing so place a white towel underneath to catch them, if needed;
  • There is one half-alligator plastic clip on either side which secures the top and bottom housing pieces together;
  • Take a flat head screwdriver and carefully work to separate the clip on one side only then you can slide out the bottom housing. Do not exert too much pressure as that may break off the clip (then you will have more headaches as you will not be able to seal out snow);
  • Remove two rockers from the bottom housing;
  • You will need to clean 6 contact pads located inside the bottom housing, as well as four contact pads on two rocker arms;
  • Using cotton swabs, remove as much residue / surface deposits from the contact pads located on the bottom housing as well as on rockers;
  • Use a pencil eraser to remove the remaining residue (if there are any left)
  • If the remaining residue is really stubborn, use a small piece of 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and carefully sand off the surface (use gentle touch in order to avoid changing the profile of the contact pads);
  • If you do not have sandpaper on hand, use a small flat head screw driver to scrape the top surface. Again, use gentle touch to avoid creating pits or grooves!
  • Use a slightly damp papertowel to remove dust and debris
  • Apply a small dab of NOALOX on all contact surfaces (no need to glob them on; just a thin coating will do;
  • Re-assemble all parts, making sure that the bottom housing is reinstalled in the correct position (green label facing to you);
  • correctly and that all wires are attached in the same direction as before


With little bit of time and patience, I was able to fire up my snow blower and get the chute rotating again.

My best guess is this short fix needs to be re-checked every year (best to do it before winter).

If you found this article to be useful, can you do me a favor and sign up for my newsletter? The signup form is found at the top of the screen on the right side.

Good luck with your repair and let me know how it turns out!


40 thoughts on “How to Fix a Broken Electric Chute on a John Deere 1330 SE Snowblower”

  1. The small springs keep falling out when I try to put it back together. Any tips on how to make them stay in place? I hope I put the holes in the right place. I can’t recall if they go side by side or one on top of the other.


  2. Haven’t done this yet, but will tonight. Been frustrated with my intermittent ability to pivot clockwise – counterclockwise works like a champ. Figured it was just pitting or something on the switch, since back and forth usually got it to finally go, but yesterday it lost ALL ability to go to the right.

    Thanks for the details and the pics. Will be nice to get my chute working right again!

  3. This repair breakdown was just what I needed to get my JD 1330se working again! My chute moved (usually) just fine to the right, but very intermittently to the left to the point it usually wouldn’t move at all.. On the rare occasisions that it was moving to the left the movement was significantly slower than it moved to the right.

    I had previously used a multimeter to check continuity on the switch and that was testing out Ok, so I had moved onto the wiring/motor for troubleshooting. Thankfully before ordering any parts (I live in New England and even in mid-March we just had to deal with 16″+ of heavy snow, so having a working snow blower is a critical) I ran into your breakdown and decided to check out my switch. Now I’m very happy to say that it’s working again, but I will order a new switch to have on hand as the piece of mind is totally worth the cost of the switch.

    All if these breakdowns are extremely well done and this DYIer is extremely grateful that you took the time to put them all together & post them.

    THANK YOU!!!!

  4. @ BJ-

    It’s so nice to hear that someone found the article to be useful.

    Great job and please stay safe!


  5. Will the replacement chute rotator switch you referenced also serve as a chute deflector switch?

  6. My guess is yes but I haven’t done it myself. If you do try it, can you let us know?


  7. you just saved me from ordering $150 worth of spare parts i did not need. thanks for this post!

  8. I’ve experienced this same problem with both of my rotation/deflection switches. It appears to me that the rockers are made of a too soft material (phosphor bronze perhaps) and are bending under use. After disassembly, I have straightened the rocker, only to find it bent slightly after use and failing again. Gloved hand operation probably contributes to heavy handed use, so easing up on holding the switch down has helped. My guess is if steel was used (they could be copper plated steel that has been tinned) as a rocker material, we would be seeing a big rust buildup problem. I have seen some evidence of arcing, but attributed that to the contact prior to the rocker bending beyond good contact.

  9. @David-

    Good points. I am guessing the manufacturer did not use copper plate rockers to save precious pennies….

    let me know if you ever find such replacement item


  10. Kevin – I just repaired my Snapper M1227E using your instructions (chute rotated right, but not left), You were exactly right the switch contacts were pitted and had carbon build-up, when I cleaned it that fixed the problem. TIP: Like BJ Blyda above, I first checked out the switch with a multimeter (checked resistance across appropriate terminals, when switch was thrown). It checked out perfectly OK with the meter — virtually no resistance in either direction, when the switch was thrown in that direction. That had me thinking the problem must be in the motor. But I then proceeded to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts per your instructions, and presto! problem solved. chute now works in both directions. So my conclusion is that an OHMMETER CAN BE VERY MISLEADING in this case — in spite of the pitting & carbon build-up, the switch conducted enough current to satisfy the ohmmeter (probably a few milliamps), but NOT enough to operate the motor. Seems to me that the manufacturer should have included a condenser on this circuit, to prevent the switch from arcing every time it is thrown — like the old points & condenser distributors in cars. I believe the arcing is what causes thecarbon build up on one contact, and erosion of the other contact (pitting). I use this switch a LOT, probably at least 50 times every time I use the snowblower, I usually have to “pulse” the switch to get the chute exactly where I want it. It probably arcs every time.

  11. @ Mark-

    Wow, thank you so much for your detailed comment!

    Hope your snowblower will work without issues during this winter.

    Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!


  12. had issues with the chute not turning and also the up and down chute also acting up, followed the corrective measures you had posted and both work very well, instruction were easy to follow and did not take any time to complete,..thanks

  13. Thanks Kevin! Really appreciate this post.

    I was actually fixing a single stage snow blower branded as Craftsman. I’m in Canada and I guess since Sears closed its business in Canada, I no longer see the model under Craftsman, what I can see is there is a model with brand Briggs & Stratton(Snapper Briggs & Stratton 250cc Snow Thrower) which looks identical to mine. I put the link here in case someone else needs the information.

    My chute stopped rotating yesterday, actually it was stuck at one end, the chute couldn’t turn to the other direction. I could hardly find any information on the internet that discusses the same issue, let alone get any idea of repairing it. Luckily I found your post, then I followed your ideas, rubbed the black spots with my screwdriver tip, then fixed the chute control! So I didn’t have to take the heavy machine around to the dealer shop, and wait for them to fix the problem. In Canadian harsh winter, this is a big relief!

    I think sooner or later I’m going to see the issue pops up again, so rather than buying a new expensive rocker switch, is there any way that we can fix the contact spots? I believe the original part was poor made, mine just failed in the second winter.

    Thanks again.

  14. @ Hi York-

    Thanks for your comment. Awesome to hear that you were able to fix the problem!

    As far as making the repair last longer, try the sandpaper and noalox solution I outlined in the post. It has been 2 seasons since the repair and I have not had any problems so far!

    Ironically, I also re-adjusted the article today to include 2 replacement parts (OEM and non-OEM). OEm from Briggs is expensive at $50 USD. The non-OEM from Cole-Hersee is half that price (due to lack of imprinted label on the switch).

    As far as I know, Briggs do not sell those contact parts separately.

    Good luck and don’t forget to send us some pictures of a monster snow storm ha ha


  15. @Kevin,

    Thank you so much!

    It’s nice to have non-OEM options to save someprecious bucks. 🙂


  16. Was not looking forward to spending a couple hundred bucks so I did a online search and found Kevin’s blog. I followed his instructions and in ten minutes I had my chute working as it should. The contacts had black spots on them just like his picture showed. Its people like Kevin that make the internet great. Thank you!

  17. @ Sherma-

    Thank you very much for your kind words. Glad we were able to help you out with your snowthrower.

    Stay warm and safe!

  18. Update on my switch DYI. I thought I would pick up a spare switch for that time in the future when a switch failed. I did more research and I found Sears sold the same blower except it was painted red. so I was able to order a switch from Sears Parts on line. I ordered the the oem part number but they sent the updated Briggs (1687904) switch with the adapter harness. $40. shipped to my house in three days. I say I did good! Thanks again.

  19. Kevin,

    You just saved me at least $60 shipping my machine out to a repair shop…your detailed instructions was exactly what I needed to pull the rocker switch out, clean the 6 contact parts, then re-install it (the springs held in place but I was ready to catch them just in case).

    How lucky are we all to have someone like you spending the time to put the step-by-steps together. God bless you and your family! You rock!



  20. Hello Kevin,
    I was facing the very same situation as described above by York and I own the same one phase snow blower as he does.

    I followed carefully your instructions and used “Ox-Guard” sold by Home Depot up here in Montreal. Guess what? It worked just as you and York described. I hope that this fix will last at least the rest of the winter. In any case, i want to thank you for posting the fix. You help me save about 100$ CDN and I was able to use the beast right away.

    Thanks again for this great post!

    Jean R.

  21. @ Jean-

    Awesome to hear that you were able to fix your snow blower.

    Stay safe & warm!


  22. @ Brian-

    Thanks for your kind words. Great to hear that you were able to fix it yourself.


  23. @ mary-

    As far as I know, springs are not sold separately. If you are in a bind, I would first power up the blower and adjust the deflector angle to something like 45 degrees. Then turn off the blower and swap the deflector and chute rocker switches. That way, your snow blower will be workable.

    Another method would be to see if you can scavenge a spring from a large ball point pen. Not sure of the length and the number of coils but that is a wild guess.

    ultimately I think you will need to buy a new rocker switch….

  24. Thank you so much. I had rules out the motor by reversing polarity using a 12 volt motor. cleaned the contacts and it works great. Saved a ton of frustration. This was for a Snapper M1227e blower.

  25. Your instructions for diagnosing and cleaning the contact points and rocker arms were ‘spot-on’! Thank you so much for taking the time to write about how to solve this fairly simple problem. The place I usually go to for help has been closed for a week (maybe on vacation?) and a big storm was coming; so was doubly glad to get this taken care of!

  26. I’ve ordered the replacement kit two separate times. Once directly from a John Deere dealer and once from the Green Parts Store. Both refunded my money after about a month because they couldn’t give me an estimated availability for the kit. Using the JD part number, I was able to get to your website and find immediate availability from e-replacement parts. Thanks for your help and all the detailed information. I’m now subscribed to your newsletter.

  27. Kevin, can’t tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials. I am not a “handy” guy, but in the last week I repaired my John Deere 1330SE twice; once to replace the auger belt and once to repair the chute rotation switch. Both were easy to do following your simple to follow instructions. Thanks for all your help. Definite confidence booster. Joe

  28. Great description and well documented with all the pics. You did a great job!

    I have 2 simplicity snow blowers – one as a backup and it has manual crank chute – Always works great

    My other has heated grips and electric chute. Pleasure to use but when the switch fails in the middle of a storm, I just use the back up blower.

    I picked the m both up very cheap!

    Thanks for the great , well organized directions

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