If you came to this page via search engine, you may first want to read Replacing Leaky Rotted Basement Windows – Part 1
STEP 1 – NEW WINDOW PREPARATION
It took about 3 weeks for the windows to come in and my Dodge minivan was awesome in carrying all 4 basement windows as well as 2 double hung windows with seats folded down. As instructed by the manufacturer, I immediately removed all shrink wraps when I returned home to reduce the risk of frame warping (fig.2.1). Upon inspecting 4 basement slider windows, I noticed that window corners had excessive “left-overs” from soldering two joints together (fig.2.2 and fig.2.3).
I knew these protrusions would interfere when squaring, plumbing and/or leveling a window, so I took my trusty Stanley SurForm Planer and filed them down. Please note that each planer swipe removes quite a bit of material please so take your time in filing them.
STEP 2 – REMOVE OLD WINDOW AND INTERIOR WINDOW TRIM
This is the part where it gets a bit messy with rusted nails sticking out and concrete pieces flying all over the place. If you have any glass windows or any other breakable objects near by, either cover them up with a sturdy cardboard or relocate them temporarily.
Please make sure to wear your work gloves, goggles and ear protection when hammering away. It will be hard to continue when your ears are ringing and can’t see when small concrete shards are hitting your eyes.
First thing I had to do was remove the bottom bracing that was installed as a window “lock” (fig.4.1). At the same time, also removed hinges that were screwed to the top header jamb (fig.4.3).
Unfortunately, the window itself was caulked to the frame so it was impossible to remove the glass window so I placed a tarp outside and using a brown paper bag as a cover, I gently broke the window glass outward (fig.5.1). I then removed the window frame itself and interior trim pieces (fig. 5.2, fig.5.3 and fig.5.4)
STEP 3 – REMOVE ROUGH OPENING WOOD FRAMES
Once the window and interior trim pieces were removed, it took about 20 minutes to completely remove the supporting frame. I took my time taking out one component out at a time so I did not encounter any problems.
I DO NOT recommend using a heavy duty demo tool like a Stanley 55-099 FatMax Xtreme Fubar Functional Utility Bar.This tool just has too much power that just may create more problems like breaking chunks of the foundation cinder blocks. For that same reason, I DO NOT recommend using a power tool to chisel off concrete either
Please note how the exterior side blind stop was buried in the mortared window sill (fig.7.4 and fig.7.5) resulting in mold growth and rot. In one case, a top header jamb and top blind stop came out as a unit (fig.7.6).
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