How to Fix a GE Profile Refrigerator that is Not Cooling (Ugh, Again)

Few years ago, my GE refrigerator (Model # PFCF1NFWA) stopped cooling after a power outage.

Fast forward to today and after a 6 hour power outage, the same refrigerator stopped cooling again!

In addition to showing you how to troubleshoot and fix this problem, I am also going to share how to minimize the risk of this happening again in the future.

SYMPTOMS

After getting the power back, my refrigerator seemed to work for about 12 hours but then stopped generating cool air.

Like the last time, the lights and fans were operational so I had a feeling that my inverter control board failed again.

REQUIRED TOOLS

• 3/8″ socket
• Mini socket ratchet
• Screwdriver (flat / Phillips)
• Can of compressed air (do not use your pancake compressor!!)
• Vacuum
• Digital Multimeter or DMM (1)
• Some foil / duct tape

(1) Please note that you will need a multi-meter for this project. And don’t worry. Using a multimeter is not as complicated as it sounds and I will show you exactly how to use it in this article.

REQUIRED PARTS

Because I have done this test/repair on m refrigerator before, I am confident that I need a replacement inverter control board. You should first go through the entire testing steps below before making a purchase.

• Compressor Inverter Control Board – click here to buy GE OEM, Part # WR49X10283

TESTING STRATEGY

The overall troubleshooting strategy is to:

• First, leverage the refrigerator’s internal diagnostic tools to check the thermistors;
• Second, test the central motherboard;
• Third, test the compressor leads to indirectly verify the inverter controller board

SETTING UP THE DIGITAL MULTIMETER

Exact steps outlined here may vary slightly but most DMMs have the setup so it should not be a problem if you have a different DMM than mine (Klein MM2300).

• Step # 1 – For testing J15 jumpers, we will be using probes leads.
• Step # a – Turn on the unit by placing the center twist lock to “V”;
• Step # b – Insert the black “banana” side of the probe into the “COM” port;
• Step # c – Insert the red “banana” side of the probe into the port labeled “V” (it may have other labels like Ohm, Temp, etc);
• Step # d – Prior to each readouts, make sure to touch the metal part of the black and red test leads and cthe DMM reads “0” (zero). This step is a MUST to obtain accurate readings;
• Step # 2 – For measuring resistance (Ohm) on 3 compressor posts, we will be using the alligator clips;
• Step # a – Turn on the unit by placing the center twist lock to “Ohm” (label looks like a girls head);
• Step # b – Insert the black “banana” side of the alligator clip into the “COM” port;
• Step # c – Insert the red “banana” side of the alligator clip into the port labeled “V” (it may have other labels like Ohm, Temp, etc);
• Step # d – Prior to each readouts, make sure to touch the metal part of the black and red test leads and cthe DMM reads “0” (zero). This step is a MUST to obtain accurate readings;

TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS

• Step # 1 – Utilize the refrigerator’s self-diagnostic tool to verify that all sensors (thermistors) are in working order. I have outlined the exact steps in my previous post, How to Use Built-in Control Diagnostics. Once verified, return to this post;
• Step # 2 – Slide out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear side;
• Step # 3 – Remove the main motherboard (metal) cover and the bottom cardboard cover; Touch any part of the rear refrigerator metal frame to eliminate any static electricity;









• Step # 4 – Insert the black and red test probes into the J15 jumper connector with the wiring in place. It does not matter which colored probes goes where. Leave the connector in place to test for several reasons:
• J15 leads are very close to each other so you may end up touching test leads with each other, making the readout useless
• J15 leads are fairly fragile so they are easy to bend/break. If you break one of them, you may have to desolder/solder on a new one (good luck with that one) or buy a new motherboard ($160 bucks!!);







• Step # 5 – The manual states that you should get anywhere between 4 to 10 volts. Mine came in at 5.05 so the main motherboard is in good working order;
• Step # 5b – Unplug the refrigerator
• Step # 6 – Disconnect two wires near the compressor as shown; To disconnect “A”, simply press down on the flat side and gently separate the two plastic connectors. To disconnect “B”, pinch or squeeze the side clips then gently pry them off from each other;



• Step # 7 – Using a Phillips screwdriver, locate and remove the bottom screw on the inverter control board unit;
• Step # 8 – Gently tip the inverter unit to the left and expose the white connector that is attached to the compressor;
• Step # 9 – Gently pry off the connector which will expose 3 metal posts on the compressor;







• Step # 10 – Remove the inverter control board, being careful of the surrounding wires and pipes. It seems tight but take your time and experiment by rotating the unit. It will come out;
• Step # 11 – Now we need to take resistance (not voltage) readings so turn the twist lock on the DMM to “Ohm”. Using alligator clips, test two posts at a time; use the following patterns which will result in 3 readouts;
• Step # 12 – Each pair of posts averaged out to be 6.6 Ohm (well within 6-8 Ohm as stated in the manual) so the compressor was in working order;








 
If your measurement falls outside the manufacturer’s range of resistance, cross your test leads to zero out the multimeter and re-do the measurements.

If the reading is still not in the proper range, you will have to replace the compressor and the refrigerant. I am afraid this is NOT a DIY project and you will have to call in a technician

 

• Step # 13 – By process of elimination, the middle component between the main motherboard and the compressor is the only remaining culprit (test was set up this way because there is no easy way to directly test the inverter board)

REPLACEMENT STEPS

When I received the replacement part # WR49X10283, I noticed right away that GE had made some enhancements and/or modifications:

• Exterior – The shell is now black and has a large metal shield. The size is about the same;
• Extra Grounding Wire – In addition to the normal grounding wire that is attached to the refrigerator’s metal frame, another wire is connected from the board to the metal shield;
• Specifications – Specifications are virtually identical, EXCEPT the voltage output was reduced from 230V-53 to 150Hz to 230V-53 to 133 Hz

My last replacement purchased few years was a verbatim copy of the inverter board that came with the refrigerator so I am hoping that all these latest changes will make the inverter board last longer this time.

CONCLUSION

I believe the inverter control board is one of the hardest working components.

By design, it is working almost 24×7 and it has to control the compressor via Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), which means it sends effective voltages between 80 and 230 VAC to the compressor.

It is not uncommon to find one or more blown capacitors on this board due to its harsh working environment.

Mix that with inevitable electrical spikes and surges during power restoration, it makes perfect sense why inverter control board is the first to go.

To minimize the risk of repeating this event, I am going to purchase a high quality, heavy-duty power surge protector specifically designed for the refrigerator.

PS. If you found this article to be useful, why not sign up for my newsletter? Just look for a signup form on the upper right hand side of your screen. Thanks!