CUTTING

Now that we have rough measurements, we can prepare for cutting. I have traced the window sill profile that I purchased from Somerville Lumber. I personally prefer cedar but you can choose any type of wood you prefer other than a pressure treated wood. You need to purchase 2″ x 8″ lumber in the length you need.

Unless it is absolutely necessary, I don’t like using pressure treated wood indoors because it might give off fumes containing VOC (volatile organic compounds). In edition, it is very difficult to obtain a pressure treated that is not wet. Wetness in wood means it is NOT dimensionally stable (may shrink when it dries) and you cannot paint over wet wood (paint will not adhere to the surface and will peel off).

Step 1: Check the actual lumber dimension
Step 2:

fig.7.1

fig.3.b.1

xxx

If you came this page via search engine, you may first want to read How to Make Your Own Window Sill – Part 1

MEASURE THE SILL ANGLE

Having an accurate window sill angle measurement ensures tight fit with windows and more importantly minimizes water infiltration via wicking. Some replacement window manufacturers like Andersen has 3 sill angle choices so providing Andersen with accurate angle measurement will ensure good fit.

So what is the correct angle for a sill? In general, a window sill should have 3-12 or 3″/12″ slope or pitch for good rain drainage. 3-12 slope means that for ever 12 inches of horizontal distance (run), the vertical measurement (rise) is 3″. Looking at Table 1.1, this corresponds to 14 degrees of slope. There are three easy ways of measuring this sill angle:

1. Inclinometer; or
2. Torpedo level and 2 ruler sticks; or
3. Small Framing Square and 1 ruler stick

METHOD 1 – INCLINOMETER

An inclinometer or clinometer is an instrument for measuring angles of slope (or tilt). It is also known as a tilt meter, tilt indicator, slope alert, slope gauge, gradient meter, gradiometer, level gauge, level meter, declinometer, and pitch & roll indicator. Clinometers measure both inclines (positive slopes, as seen by an observer looking upwards) and declines (negative slopes, as seen by an observer looking downward).

In our case, using an inclinometer is the simplest and fastest way of measuring the angle of a window sill. You can buy one (fig.6.1 click here to read inclinometer reviews and recommendations), use a paper template (fig.6.2 - click to download the PDF template) or a cardboard angle finder (fig.6.3). The last two are provided free by Andersen Windows (To obtain the one in fig.6.3, I believe you have to visit one of their retail locations but call ahead to confirm that they have one in stock for free).

Please note that both mechanical or electronic inclinometers are far more accurate and can also be used in other settings (like when setting a blade angle on a table saw, etc.) whereas the paper angle finder is less accurate.

fig.6.1

fig.6.2

fig.6.3

METHOD 2 – TORPEDO LEVEL AND 2 RULER STICKS

Another method is to use a torpedo level and 2 small ruler sticks to measure the angle.

However, unlike the inclinometor, you *MAY* have to remove any exterior storm windows and storm window frames to get the necessary clearance to get the accurate measurement. Please note that if your window sill has 2 surface levels, the vertical ruler must rest on the uppermost level.

To calculate the appropriate angle, simply place 1 ruler horizontally (use a level) and read off the height from the second ruler.  You can then calculate the angle by looking at the table below.

METHOD 3 – FRAMING SQUARE

Another alternative method is to instead use a small framing square against the outside blindstop. This way you don’t have to fuddle around with a level and 2 ruler sticks. However, you are assuming that your blind stop is truly plumb (vertical).

Once you obtain the measurement, please use the table above to calculate the sill angle.

How To Make Your Own Sill – Part 3

As mentioned in the article, How To Make Your Own Window Sill, you do NOT need to buy one to measure angles. The article mentioned several “manual” methods to accomplishing the same goal.
However, having a small inclinometer comes in handy when the space is tight. In addition, if you purchase one with a magnets, you can expand the use such as adjusting the angle of a blade in the table saw.

I like this particular unit because it has no batteries to worry about and is sturdy. It even comes with a magnet to attach to metal surfaces. The only drawback is that the numbers on the gauge is quite small but a good addition to your DIY toolbox if you need have good eye sight.

This is the unit I recommend. It is very compact so it can work in some tight spaces (like measuring a window sill angle WITHOUT removing the exterior storm window frame). In addition, the unit has magnets that can attach to metal surfaces like table saw blades, etc. so that it can be used in lots of different situations. The only drawback is that it has delicate electronic components inside so DO NOT DROP IT. But for thirty bucks, it’s a great addition to your DIY toolbox

Maybe you could not find any window sills at Home Depot, Lowes, True Value or any other hardware / lumber stores. Or maybe you just want a challenge. Whatever the case maybe, if you are up for it, I can share my window sill template I created from my replacement part.

ASSESSMENT

There seems to be a widespread of using “window sill” to describe thewindow sill and window stool. Take a look at fig.1.1, fig.1.2, and fig.1.3to get a good understanding of how window frame is put together.

fig.1.1

fig.1.2

fig.1.3

The very first thing is to take a look at your existing window sill, both from the inside and outside.

Profiling the sill nose and other finishing touches can be done AFTER we remove the old window sill but the two most important parts to know BEFORE removing the window sill are the angle and thickness of your window sill.

Other than judging the condition of the window sill, it is very difficult to accurately gauge the sill angle just by looking at it so we will need some way to measure the sill angle.

We will obtain the sill thickness by measuring the exterior sill nose as well as from the inside by removing the window stool and apron.

PLANNING

MATERIALS

• 2″ X 6″ kiln dried lumber (or other sizes depending on your needs)
• 1 lb box of 2 1/2″ Deckmate screws
• Wood or composite shims
• Loose insulation
• Window caulk
• 1″ finishing nails

TOOLS

• Tape measure
• Table saw or circular saw (additional setup required)
• Inclinometer (to measure angles, you can buy or make one)
• 4″ metal drywall spatula
• Wonderbar / crawbar
• Claw hammer
• Mash hammer
• Router
• Jig saw

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

MEASURING OLD WINDOW SILL – THICKNESS

Step 1: Take your tape measure, go outside and take a look the bottom part of the window.  You should be able to see a protruding wood trim.  Take a measurement of the window sill nose.

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fig.2.2

fig.2.3

Step 2: Break the paint seal (fig.3.1).  Use a sharp utility knife to score between the quarter round- and side trim moldings.

Step 3: Separate two moldings (fig.3.2).  Using a hammer, gently tap the 4″ metal drywall spatula between the quarter round and side trim moldings.  Using a light rocking side-to-side, then up-and-down motions, gently create a small gap between the quarter round and side trim moldings.  Then find and mark finishing nails by sliding up and down with the spatula in between the gap.

Step 4:  Using a flat tipped craw bar (i.e. Wonderbar), gently pry off the nails, making sure to work all nail points little bit at a time (fig.3.3).  Of course if you don’t plan on re-using the quarter round molding, you can be less careful and just pry them off. Repeat these steps for the other quarter round molding.

fig.3.1

fig.3.2

fig.3.3

Step 6:  Now we need to remove the side trim moldings.  We normally do not remove these moldings when installing replacement windows but we need clear access to the window stool so we have to get it out. Use the same method as before to gently pry off the side moldings.  In order to remove the window without damaging the drywall, use the 4″ metal spatula as a backerboard against the Wonderbar.

Step 7: To remove the window stool, use a 3 lb mash hammer to gently tap the underside of the window stool (fig.4.2). A claw hammer is not recommended because you must strike it harder and it has a less surface area so it will damage the wood surface. Again, if you don’t plan on saving it, whack it away!

Step 8: Use the same method to remove the window apron (fig.4.4)

Please note that some window pictures may show drywall damages. That’s because I could not find ideal pictures from the same project so I had to “borrow” pictures from my kitchen remodeling project.

Step 9: Take the measurement. It should be approximately 1.5″ thick (fig.4.6)

fig.4.1	fig.4.2	fig.4.3
fig.4.4	fig.4.5	fig.4.6

MEASURING OLD WINDOW SILL – WIDTH

Now that the window sill is exposed inside, its a simple 2 step process to measure the width.
Step 1: From the inside, take the measurement from end-to-end (fig.5.1). Pay special attention to the side jamb and window sill. My side jamb was notched at an angle to accept the window sill (fig.5.2).
Step 3: From the outside, take the measurement from end-to-end.

fig.5.1

fig.5.2

fig.5.3

This is part 1 of 2 of the How To Make Your Own Sill article.Click here to read part 2.

Plastic sheeting is made of polyethylene (a.k.a. plastic “poly” sheet) and is very handy to have several types around your workshop. Plastic sheeting comes in a wide range of thickness, rated with the term MIL.

1 MIL is a measurement unit that equals 0.001 inch which is about the width of an average human hair.

The most common plastic sheeting sizes found in local hardware stores are 2, 3,4 and 6 MIL poly sheets.  Some of the most common uses are:

• 2 MIL – use as covers when painting / drywall sanding;
• 3 MIL – temporary wall (i.e. zipwall containment)
• 4 MIL – moisture and vapor barrier, mulching, weather protection, concrete curing;
• 6 MIL – heavy duty mulch under layment, concrete slab vapor barrier, opening cover;

Keep in mind to buy UV resistive plastic sheeting if you plan on exposing it to the sun for a length of time.

TIPS:

If you have a roll of left over poly sheeting and it is not tall / wide enough for your project, you can join two pieces together by using a reinforced weatherproof tape

Best of Building Science – tons of video tutorials about best practices in home buildings

http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com/

Old House Web

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/double-hung-window-construction.shtml

Extreme How-Tos

http://extremehowto.com/window-trim-basics/

MEASURING HOW TALL SOMETHING IS

http://www.exploratorium.edu/math_explorer/howHigh_makeInclino.html

 
CALCULATING A PITCH (ROOF, SILL, ETC)

WINDOW TYPES

There are three basic choices when replacing a window: new construction, sash replacement-kit, or wood and/or vinyl replacement windows.

If I have the opportunity to do a total remodel, I would choose a new construction window every single time.  I have never really tried sash replacement kits because I think it does not offer superior value over the construction or replacement windows.  On the contrary, if I need to replace an old window with minimum fuss, I choose a replacement window.

NEW CONSTRUCTION WINDOW

New Construction Window

If you choose to install a new construction window, you will need to strip the window surrounding down to the studs, and probably will need to disturb the exterior trim and siding.   That is because new construction windows come with tabs or flanges that are attached to the window.  These tabs or flanges in turn are nailed or screwed down to the structural framing from the outside.  The positive side to installing a new construction window is that there will be enough room around the window to properly insulate gaps, gaining energy efficiency.

PROS

1. Possibly the best thermal energy performance when compared to sash replacement kits and replacement windows due to window flange window + contiguous insulation;
2. Some cost LESS than replacement windows;
3. Retain or improve the amount of light coming in through the window;

CONS

1. Typically comes in limited sizes and usually cannot be customized (custom work = expensive);
2. May need to enlarge or shrink the rough window opening;
3. May need to remove / re-install exterior siding and/or trim;
4. May need to remove or add interior trim work, including drywall / sheetrock;
5. May have higher labor cost;

REPLACEMENT SASH KIT

Sash Repl. Kit

If the existing window frame is in good condition and you want to retain the current look (let’s say for historical reasons), a replacement sash kit may be the only option.  However, I have never used this option as I have always found something wrong  with the window frame, be it rotted side jamb or rotted window sills.  Bill Mattison, Ross DePaola, and Dariush Arasteh from HomeEnergy.org wrote:

“… a replacement sash kit—consisting of a new sash with low-e glass, jamb liners, and hardware should be considered.  Although sash kits are only slightly less costly than complete replacement windows, they offer several advantages:

• The visible opening is only slightly reduced.
• The kit can be installed by do-it-yourselfers with basic carpentry skills. (This is also true of replacement insert windows.)
• Low-e glass units are readily available in standard and custom sizes.
• Tilt options allow access to external storms for cleaning.
• Double-hung sash kits are available in wood or vinyl from many manufacturers.

If you would like to read more about the sash-kit, please click here for a PDF article from HomeEnergy.org

REPLACEMENT WINDOWS

Repl. Window

I have replaced many old windows with new construction windows from Andersen (double-hung) and Pella (casement) in the past only when these rooms were going through some major renovations. However, in most cases I chose to go with vinyl replacement windows.

PROS

1. Replacement windows have improved dramatically in the last 6 or years or so and they offer just as many advanced technologies as new construction windows;
2. Installation is a breeze;
3. Relatively inexpensive compared to customized new construction windows;
4. Lifetime warranty from a reputable company;
5. No finishing – pick the color you want and that’s it
6. Low maintenance – no peeling and no painting!

CONS

1. Potential for reduced glass area when compared to the original window, letting in less light;
2. Thick frames and sashes, letting in less light;
3. The texture and surface appearance of vinyl windows cannot be disguised as wood

ANATOMY OF A DOUBLE HUNG WINDOW

A double hung window simply means that both top and bottom windows (a.k.a. sashes) move up and down.  It is a typical window type found in vast majority of homes.

Before blindly taking apart your window, it is helpful to understand some of the components involved so that we can prepare for any installation challenges.  Here are two different look of a double hung window

fig.2.1

fig.2.2

Fig.2.1 is a side look at the window.  Fig.2.2 is an angled look at the window.  Please note that due to image limitations, some components may not be shown in both images.

Now that we have a good picture of the various window parts, we can start taking out the old window.  To continue with my reduce, reuse, recycle mantra, I will attempt to re-use these components:

1. Two side jambs and a top jamb (a jamb is usually a 0.25″ thick piece of pine wood attached to the framing lumber);
2. Window sill (if in good condition);
3. Exterior blind stops (one on each side; they stop the new replacement window from falling out of the window opening!); top blind stop is usually removed and tossed;
4. Window stool and interior moldings;

REFERENCES:

• Vycor Flashing For Use With New Construction Window Flanges
• DuPont FlexWrap For Use with New Construction Window Flanges
• Replacement Windows vs New Construction Windows – Discussion at GardenWeb
• Double Hung Window Construction – Article from OldHouseWeb

I have owned this Black and Decker circular saw for over 15 years now and it just keeps on working like it was brand new.  Other than replacement blades and some electrical tape (accidentally cut into the cord when the blade was not completely stopped), it can still rip through any lumber I throw at it with no problem.  I love my cordless tools but when heavy duty cutting is necessary, nothing beats a powerful, sustained cut from my trusty old Black and Decker circular saw.

Most circular saws come with 2 basic adjustments:

• Cutting blade depth
• Bevel angle

ADJUSTING THE BLADE DEPTH

For my Black and Decker circular saw, the wingnut to adjust the blade depth was located on the left, rear side, just below the motor mount.

If you have a scrap piece that is the same depth as what you are trying to cut, it is far easier to flip the circular saw upside-down and adjust the depth.  If the piece you are trying to cut has one side that is accessible or in plain view, you can adjust it by resting the circular saw on it.

However, most of time, you will probably NOT have any of the options above.  In that case, we simply need to eyeball it.  One helpful hint would be to try and identify what you are trying to cut and adjust the blade depth accordingly.  For example, most plywood that is used as a wall is either 1/2″ or 3/4″ thick so we can set the cutting depth to be slightly (may be 1/8 inch) shallower than 1/2″ than cut and re-adjust the depth.

Just remember, it is always better to cut shallow than deep on the first try.

fig.1.1

fig.1.2

BEVEL ANGLE ADJUSTMENT

For Black and Decker models, the bevel angle adjustment wingnut is in the front.  All you have to do is loosen the wingnut just enough so that the blade can smoothly move about the cutting fence track.  Once you find the desirable angle, re-tighten he wingnut and you are set to go!

If you want some more tips and information, Family Handyman has an excellent article here

A bolt is a threaded fastener with a head, designed to be used in conjunction with washer(s) and a nut. Bolts come in many different types and sizes, depending on the situation.  Generally speaking, I like working with either 1/2″, 5/8″ or 3/4″ hexagon headed bolts when working with support / framing (i.e. decks, joist-sistering, etc.).  Since I work with lumber, I choose to work with a partially threaded bolt vs a fully threaded bolt which is geared towards working with metal.

Because today’s lumber comes from young trees, they tend to be soft so I make sure I use larger washers on both sides (washer with a head + washer with a nut)   I believe it to be more secure than using a lag bolt or screws.

As far as the material type is concerned, I found this information from BoltProducts.com:

• Stainless steel bolts: Common choice of hex screws since they don’t need any coating and are corrosion resistant.
• Carbon steel bolts: The most common hexagon screw head bolts are zinc plated for added corrosion resistance.
• Alloy steel bolts: These types of hex bolts are made to withstand an enormous amount of pounds per square inch. They are coated with either cadmium or zinc plating to protect them against corrosion.

An online merchant called BoltDepot.com has tons of useful information, including some nifty size guides that can be printed out.  Check them out below:

• Bolt Grading
• US to Metric Conversion Table
• Various washer sizes, materials, and types
• Printable Fastener Tools (if the links is broken, click here)

There seems to be two major companies making various structural connectors, such as deck ties, hurricane straps, etc.

OVERVIEW – SIMPSON STRONG TIE

Simpson Strong Ties products are universally available at both Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, and other big box home improvement  stores as well as online stores.

For more than 50 years, Simpson Strong-Tie has focused on creating structural products that help people build safer and stronger homes and buildings. Considered a leader in structural systems research, testing and innovation, Simpson Strong-Tie is one of the largest suppliers of structural building products in the world.

Connectors add greater strength and safety to your project, require fewer nails for installation, and often eliminate the need for toenailing or more complicated traditional construction methods.

If you’ve never used connectors before, you may be surprised by our many products that make wood frame construction easier for both the weekend carpenter and the professional builder. Read more about connectors basics.

Even if you’ve used joist hangers, angles, or strap ties before, you may not know about all the other connectors we make for specific applications like post bases and caps, seismic and hurricane anchors, framing anchors and shelf or fence brackets. Fill all nail holes with specified fasteners before loading.

The only downside to Simpson Strong Ties is that I do not for certain where they are manufactured.

OVERVIEW – USP STRUCTURAL CONNECTORS / MITEK

USP Structural Connectors, A MiTek company, has almost as diverse as products as Simpson Strong Ties, but is available at select locations (i.e. Lowes and smaller hardware stores and online stores).

United Steel Products Company is a metal fabricating manufacturer serving the residential and commercial building industries throughout the United States. USP’s product line encompasses over 4,000 finished part numbers: standard construction hardware for the light construction and retail/do-it-yourselfer markets, as well as a complete line of connectors for the Engineered Lumber and Plated Truss industries. This full-range product line is backed up by an in-house engineering staff, technical assistance team and Customer Service.

USP products are manufactured in three locations across the United States: Livermore, California; Montgomery, Minnesota; and Largo, Florida; and one Canadian location in Thornhill, Ontario.

PRODUCT GUIDELINES / BROCHURES

Simpson Strong Ties provides extensive online product information by accessing here

The latest product performance guide between USP and Simpson products can be found at USP’s website here (if the link is broken, click here).

Here is my list of items that I usually have around in my shed at all times:

A21

A35-Bent

A35-Straight

L50

TIP: Some of these parts may not be available when I need them. Rather than wasting time, hunting down parts at the last minute, I usually buy a few whenever I get a chance to have them on hand as they are inexpensive.  If you are about to order some items from Amazon, make sure to pick up some to get free shipping