If you found this page via a search engine, you may first want to read part 1, part 2, or part 3.

WARNING: A temporary support in the basement was required, supporting the first- and second floors. Lots of risks, including potential for death, injury and property damage.

Now that I got that cumbersome concrete step out of the way, I can finally take a clear look and see what kinds of damages are there.

In this article, I will outline how I removed the rotted wood and replaced them with new, pressure treated wood.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• Various crow bars
• Claw / mash hammer
• Framing square
• Circular saw
• Wood chisel
• Work gloves
• Eye protection
• Reciprocating saw
• Sill seal
• Tube of caulking / caulking gun
• 2 1/2″ Deck Mate Screws
• 5/8″ Wedge anchor

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

Step 1 – As a temporary measure, I had jammed in a strip of 1/2″ plywood (fig.1.2.d) before installing my 3/4″ plywood sheathing (fig.1.2.b) for my kitchen wall. Off it goes. (fig.1.2.a=Tyvek house wrap, fig.1.2.c=basement wall)

Step 2 – As expected, bottom sill plate in this section is pretty much gone and so is most of the top sill plate. Rim joist doesn’t look too bad thus far but I need to cut back the exterior plywood for closer look

fig.7.1

fig.7.2

fig.7.3

fig.7.4

Step 3 – I took my trusty old Black and Decker corded circular saw and set the depth slightly less than 3/4″ thick. Then using a torpedo and 6 ft levels, I drew an outline of a long rectangle on the 3/4″ exterior plywood and removed it

Step 4 – With the exterior plywood out of the way, I could now see the affected area in its entirety. I saw significant rot on the top part of the rim joist due to how the kitchen door sill used to rest on the deck with absolutely no flashing. The bottom part of the rim joist and sill plates were rotted because the concrete patio step in effect acted as a water channel and funneled rain water. A little bit of common sense would have prevented most of these damages. I mean who built this stuff?

REFERENCES

Makita HM1214c (UPC Code 088381-603669) is Makita’s medium duty electric demolition hammer with anti-vibration technology:

• Powerful 14.0 AMP motor to handle the most demanding applications
• Anti-Vibration Technology is an internal counterbalance system that greatly reduces vibration and directs more impact energy to the work surface for increased user comfort and greater productivity
• Constant speed control automatically applies additional power to the motor to maintain speed under load to complete the most challenging jobs
• Soft start suppresses start-up reaction for more control and better accuracy
• Variable speed control dial enables user to match the speed to the application for greater versatility
• L.E.D. service light notifies the user approximately 8 hours before the brushes need to be replaced
• L.E.D. power light indicates switch failure or cord damage
• Makita Motor Advantage engineered with field core interlocking steel laminations, dual ball bearing armature and more copper commutator bars, increasing energy transfer efficiency for more power and longer tool life
• Extended life brushes are longer for more work between service intervals and less downtime
• 12 bit angle settings allow the bit to be set at different positions for operating convenience
• Automatic brush cut-off protects commutator from damage for longer tool life
• “No hammering when idling” function helps increase tool life
• One-touch chuck allows for quick bit changes
• Easy-to-operate slide switch increases productivity and allows for continuous use
• Rubberized ergonomic soft grip provides more comfort and control
• Side handle swivels 360° for greater control
• Accepts SDS-MAX bits

The price for a 24 hour rental was $90, which included 2 drill bits (bull point and flat chisel with SDS-Max shanks). Weighing at 27 lbs, it’s not exactly light, but it is pretty powerful and can break apart large concrete chunks with ease.

SHANK TYPES

Shank is the part of the drill bit that gets inserted into a whatever-powertool.
The SDS (Straight Drill Shank) bit was developed by Bosch in 1975 and the name comes from the German “Steck – Dreh – Sitz” (Insert – Twist – Stay). German-speaking countries may use “Spannen durch System” (Clamping System), though Bosch uses “Special Direct System” for international purposes.

• Relatively complex to manufacture
• Superb hammer drilling performance
• Drills with a “rotation-stop” mode can use chiselling bits
• One-handed quick chucking operation
• Can only be held in an SDS chuck
• Not very accurate centering
• High torque transmission

The SDS-Max has the advantage of a simple spring-loaded chuck, so that bits can be chucked with a simple and quick hand action. Further, the shank and chuck are uniquely suited to hammer drilling in stone and concrete. The drill bit is not held solidly in the chuck, but can slide back and forth like a piston. The hammer of the drill acts to accelerate only the drill bit itself, and not the large mass of the chuck, which makes hammer drilling with an SDS shank drill bit much more productive than with other types of shank. So, SDS shanks are most often seen on masonry drills, for which hammer drilling action is most helpful (wikipedia).

DRILL BIT TIPS

Like many other manufacturers, Makita makes a variety of drill bits for different purposes. For breaking apart large concrete masses, I rented a bull point and flat chisel drill bits.
It might have been useful to also have rented a scaling chisel but Home Depot was out of stock at the time.

RENTAL EXPERIENCE

I give high marks to Home Depot for maintaining their equipment and keep them clean. I have yet to have any instances of equipment failure.

fig.9.1

fig.9.2

fig.9.3

PERFORMANCE

Other than it being a bit cumbersome to maneuver, I was very happy with the performance. Because the concrete was poured right next to the basement walls, I was concerned about vibrations being transmitted into the house, possibly loosening my lolly columns. Those fears were unfounded as Makita HM1214C was just powerful enough to chisel away concrete without shaking up the entire house. It did take about a full day to remove 5′ x 5′ x 9 inches of solid concrete, but it was probably because I was being overly cautious.

One thing to keep in mind is that this electric demolition hammer draws a quite a bit of load. So in order to maintain that high performance, use Prime EC600825 Extra Heavy Duty 25-Foot Outdoor Generator Extension Cord 3-Conductor Triple Tap, not one of those skinny extension cords.

REFERENCES

Makita USA (http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=316375)
Makita HM1214c Owner’s Manual (http://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Output/DownloadFile.aspx?FileName=Products/HM1214C/owners_manuals/OM_HM1214C.pdf)

Hilti DSH700 is a medium sized hand held gas saw for:

• Wet/dry concrete and asphalt cutting for small repairs, expansion joints and curbs
• Cutting of brick, concrete block and other small floor or wall openings
• Cutting of metal deck, rebar, bolts, dowel bars, grating and other metals

With sales tax and an extra blade, 24 hour rental cost was $150 (unused extra blade can be returned for a full refund). Home Depot even provided me with a small gas can that was pre-mixed with engine oil (2 cycle engines use gas-oil mixture unlike 4 cycle engines).

fig.1.1

Fig.1.2

fig.1.3

To reduce the amount of dust produced when cutting, Hilti recommends use of the wet cutting method. Just make sure the rental place gives you a quick disconnect connector so that you can hook up the water hose to the saw.

By the way, you do NOT need a lot of water whencutting.  Just a trickle will do just fine to reduce the dust and cool off the blade.  If you have too much water, it will splatter all over, making cleanup more difficult and time consuming.

fig.2.1

fig.2.2

fig.2.3

fig.2.4

Because I did not know if this concrete step contained rebars, so I rented a metal blade for extra $100. There is nothing worse than stopping what you are doing and making a trip to the hardware store in wet dirty clothing. Besides, if I did not end up using the blade, I could return it for a full refund.

As far as the saw was concerned, it felt light enough to maneuver it easily. With a 14″ blade, the cutting depth was approximately 3 inches. You definitely need to wear eye and ear protections because it is LOUD. With a diamond tipped blade, I felt like cutting butter with a sharp knife.

Before leaving the store, make sure you understand how to operate the saw.  If you have never worked with a gasoline powered, 2 cycle engine before, ask one of the salesperson to show you how to properly start Hilti DSH700 concrete saw.

REFERENCES

Hilti DSH 700/900 Manual (http://www.us.hilti.com/fstore/holus/techlib/docs/DSH%20700_900%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf)

According to Wiki, a lally columns is:

… round thin walled structural steel column oriented vertically to provide support to beams or timbers stretching over long spans….The lally column is named after a U. S. inventor, John Lally, who owned a construction company that started production of these columns in the late 19th century…

To make it more confusing (I am sure to get around the patent), it can also be referred to as:

• adjustable support column;
• steel column;
• lolly / lollie column;
• jack post;
• Floor jack;
• Screw jack;

To make it simple, I will referred to it as a lally column from this point on.

In my recent project, I had to support the entire side of a house from the basement to replace my rotted rim/band joist and sill plates.  I need to support about 21 feet so I obtained 4 lally columns (6 feet apart in span to support tripled 2×12 support beam).

BUY OR RENT?

I initially considered renting these lally columns but most rental places asked too much money. For example, Fusco’s Rental in Flemington, NJ (http://www.fuscorentalworld.com/) wanted $25 per day for an 8 ft long lally columns (or $100 each for a week).

In comparison, Home Depot sold Tiger Brand Super “S” 8 ft. 4 in. Jack Post for $46.87 each. Since I did not know exactly how long this project would take, I decided to buy instead of renting them.

DIFFERENT TYPES

In a strict sense, a lally column is a non-adjustable, concrete filled support.

What I wanted was a strong adjustable column (i.e. thick tubing) with minimal to no lateral movement to ensure that the support will stay in place while I worked.  There are lots of cheap brands choose from but keep in mind, they are cheap for a reason (like having thin tubing).

I ultimately chose the Tiger Brand because they have extensive information available at their website (http://www.tigerbrandjackpost.com/jack-post-s-series.html).

By the way, Lowes sells them under the Tapco brand made by Akron Products (http://www.akronproducts.com/floor-jacks.html).  Akron happens to own Tiger Brand as well so in reality, it does not matter if you buy Tapco or Tiger Brand, as long as their specs are the same.

Also, lally columns come in variety of heights so make sure to factor the height of ALL components (i.e. thickness of the metal plate, height of the bottle jack) before buying them.

How to Calculate Required Height for Lally Column

WHICH SIDE UP?

Manufacturers state that it does not matter if the screw side is up or down but in my personal experience, I found it to be much easier if I had the screw side at the top and here are two reasons why:

1. Center of gravity. With the screw side down, all that steel tube mass is now up high, making it much more difficult to maneuver;
2. Screw turning. I found that it was physically easier on me to be standing up and turning the screw, rather than being hunched over (talk about a lower back killer!)

Remember, a lally column must be absolutely vertical so I took two plumb measurements 90 degrees apart before tightening up the lally column screw.

REFERENCES

• October Home ASHI ( http://www.octoberhome.com/articles/adjustcolumn/adjustcolumn.html )
• Lally Colums at About.com ( http://homerenovations.about.com/od/toolsbuildingmaterials/g/LallyColumn.htm )
• Tiger Brand Jack Posts ( http://www.tigerbrandjackpost.com/fixed-length-columns.html )
• Installing Lally Columns ( http://www.kwaree.com/blog/2006/09/05/installing-lally-columns-and-footings-for-girder-beam/ )

The bulk of energy loss in a home comes from dozens of small holes, cracks and gaps inside and outside that allow air leakage so sealing air leaks with insulating spray foam sealants is one of the most practical and economical ways to block heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.

Small foam cans come in two basic varieties. Latex (open cell) or Polyurethane (closed cell) foams.  If you would like to read more in detail about functional differences between the open vs closed polyurethane cells, go here.

In this article, we will review those ubiquitous Great Stuff, DAPtex Touch ‘n Foam cans found at your local big box stores.

SIDE BY SIDE COMPARISON

GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door

If you’re installing windows, doors or skylights and you’re not using GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door foam sealant, you’re probably unaware of a faster, cheaper air-sealing solution. In fact, there are some window and door manufacturers that have tested and endorsed GREAT STUFF™ Window & Door. It is a minimal-expanding foam with a low pressure build that forms a durable, airtight and water-resistant seal between a window or door frame and its rough opening without bowing or bending the window frames. It’s the original window and door draft stopper.

• Proprietary low-pressure formula designed not to bow bend window and door frames
• Ideal for filling sealing other areas where low-pressure flexible foam is desirable
• Provides real insulation value which complements energy efficiency of the window or door. Greater insulating value than chinked fiberglass or caulk
• Soft, pliable foam is forgiving, easier to remove if gap is overfilled. Cured foam can be stuffed back into the gap without trimming
• One 12 oz. can foams up to six average sized residential windows (36′ x 60″, 3/8″ wide gap, and 1″ deep)
• Repels/deflects water
• Tack free in 8 minutes; Trims within 1 hour
• Flexible foam permits expansion and contraction
• Paintable, sandable and stainable
• Yellow colored foam
• Cures flexible
• Conforms to ASTM & AAMA standards

For warnings and precautions, disposal information and more, download the GREAT STUFF™ Consumer Safety Information (if the link is broken, click here)

Directions

DIRECTIONS AND SAFE HANDLING

Read directions and safe handling information carefully before use.DIRECTIONS

1. Shake can vigorously for 30 seconds before use.
2. Screw threaded end of straw assembly securely onto valve. Dispense slowly. If foam does not flow easily, do not force from can.
3. Familiarize yourself with foam by practicing on newspaper.
4. Fill openings less than 50% full. For large voids, mist water between foam applications to speed curing. Overfilling can buckle substrates.
5. Foam is tack-free in about 5-10 minutes and cures in eight hours.
6. Cured foam can be trimmed, shaped, sanded, painted or stained. To trim, use a sharp knife or serrated blade.
7. Can will seal itself shut if allowed to sit unused for over two hours and may not be restarted. Expect one-time use.

DAPtek Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant

In its natural form, latex is a milky white liquid tapped from the trunks of rubber trees (hevea brasiliensis)and then combined with water to create a thick suspension.  There have been reports of individuals experiencing allergenic reactions attributed to exposure to natural latex products. For the most part, these cases allegedly involve dermatological contact with latex gloves, clothing or bed covers. According to companies involved in the production of latex foam products for cushioning applications, the vast majority of these cases are dermatitis related and occur primarily with people in the medical industry who wear natural latex gloves as protection over a long period of time.

Natural proteins from the rubber tree have been attributed by health professionals as the primary cause of allergic reactions. Some companies advise that if an individual is known to have allergies to plant antigens, they should avoid contact with natural latex based products. Synthetic latex does not contain natural proteins that can cause an allergic reaction and so synthetic rubber products provide options for individuals having concerns about exposure to natural latex.

DAPtex® Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant is a latex-based product used for filling voids and sealing large
gaps. Designed to meet the tough standards demanded for professional window & door installations while
offering the easiest-to-use technology for DIYers. When applied properly, this patented formula helps reduce
energy loss and damage that can be caused by air, rain and pest infiltration.

• DAPtex® Plus will not over expand like polyurethane foams. DAPtex® Plus will expand to 90% of its full
size immediately upon application. Full expansion will be achieved within 20-30 minutes, depending on
bead size, temperature and humidity.
• Proven not to bow, buckle or distort window and door frames.
• Tack free in 10 minutes. A one inch bead fully cures in 24 hours depending on bead size, temperature and
humidity.
• Toolable and moldable while wet. Do not trim or remove skin of the cured foam.
• Flexible when cured.
• Cured foam can be painted with latex paint.
• Easy soap and water clean-up when wet.
• When fully cured the product should be firm to the touch and withstand moderate pressure.
Surface Preparation

DIRECTIONS

INSTRUCTIONS: READ DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY INFORMATION BEFORE USE!
1. Product is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE WHILE DISPENSING! Refer to label and Material Safety Data
Sheet and extinguish all ignition sources during use and cure.
2. To avoid risk of electric shock when perimeter sealing electrical switches and outlet boxes, disconnect
power during application of product and until product is fully cured. *When perimeter sealing switches or
electrical boxes, do not fill box.
3. Wear safety glasses and use in well-ventilated areas.
4. Clean and remove grease, dirt and debris from application area.
5. Shake can vigorously for 1 minute before use.
6. Push straw into nozzle located above the trigger.
7. Remove safety tab above trigger.
8. Apply at temperatures between 45°F -105ºF. The product should be above 60°F for optimum dispensing
rate.
9. Slowly dispense foam from can in upright position, filling cavity to 90% to allow for minimal expansion.
10. For best results, tool or shape while wet. Do not trim or remove skin of the cured foam.
11. For exterior applications, foam must be painted with a quality exterior latex paint after fully cured.
12. If storing for reuse, remove straw and clean it and nozzle with warm water. Cured material can be removed
from nozzle or straw with a pipe cleaner or paper clip.
13. Not recommended for use at or below grade, or for closed cavities. For gaps more than 2” deep, use multiple
layers of 1”-2” each.

 

• Seals, insulates and weatherproofs
• Easy water clean-up
• Won’t over-expand
• Tough and durable
• Conserves energy to save money
• No paint thinner required
• Water resistant
• Paintable
• Toolable and moldable
• Reusable, non-clogging applicator
• Interior /Exterior

Clean Up and Storage:
Uncured foam can be cleaned up with soap and water. Excess cured sealant can be scraped off.

Packaging: Net Wt. 12oz (340g)
Color: White
UPC Number: 0 70798 18836 5, 0 70798 18822 8

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) – (English, Spanish, French) – If the link is broken, click here for English

Touch ‘n Foam NoWarp Window and Door Sealant

Touch ‘n Foam is a relative new player when compared with Great Stuff and DAPtex Plus.

NoWarp Window and Door Sealant from Convenience Products on Vimeo.

Touch ‘n Foam No Warp Window & Door Sealant is specially formulated for use around window and door frames. While it can be used as an all-purpose foam, This revolutionary expanding polyurethane foam is designed to seal and insulate without exerting pressure that can be detrimental to window or door frame stability.

This low pressure foam is actually self-venting which means that once it fills the void, the trapped CO2 leaves the product – unlike conventional polyurethane foam that may continue to expand and apply pressure. This is ideal for sensitive areas (like window and door frames where the gap can be sealed without bowing the frame – even if the area is overfilled with foam).
Touch ‘n Foam NoWarp Window & Door Sealant is specially formulated for use around window and door frames. While it can be used as an all-purpose foam, This revolutionary expanding polyurethane foam is designed to seal and insulate without exerting pressure that can be detrimental to window or door frame stability.

This low pressure foam is actually self-venting which means that once it fills the void, the trapped CO2 leaves the product – unlike conventional polyurethane foam that may continue to expand and apply pressure. This is ideal for sensitive areas (like window and door frames where the gap can be sealed without bowing the frame – even if the area is overfilled with foam).

• Low pressure formula – guaranteed not to warp frames or jambs
• Fills and insulates better than fiberglass
• Stops drafts to minimize energy loss
• Creates a moisture barrier
• Fire retardant
• Meets ASTM E-84
• Item # 4001044000

Material Safety Data Sheet – English, Spanish, French (if the link is broken, click here for the English version).

Touch ‘n Foam Federal Tax Credit for Energy Efficiency pdf

REFERENCE LINKS:

Polyurethane Form Association

There are two main types of polyurethane spray foam insulation:  open vs closed cell foam insulation.  Both open cell and closed cell foam insulation are used to stop the air flow and provide resistance to heat flow but there are few major differences between the two types, leading to advantages and disadvantages over the other.

OPEN CELL FOAM INSULATION

Open cell foam insulation is usually found in application densities ranging from 0.5 to 1.5 lbs per cubic feet, thus it is also referred to as half pound or low density foam.  It cures into a softly textured (“spongy”) foam with irregular and broken bubbles containing air, similar to a cushion or foam packaging material molded inside a plastic bag to custom fit a particular item being shipped (i.e. expensive digital SLR camera).

Because pockets fill with air, the R-value of open cell foam insulation is close to that of conventional fiberglass insulation.  And like the conventional fiberglass insulation, open cell foam insulation can absorb moisture so it should not be used in exterior environment where it can be in direct contact with water.

When getting a SPF (Spray Polyurethane Foam) quote using open cell foam insulation, it is critical that the thickness of the sprayed foam is clearly mentioned in the proposal.

Icynene (http://www.icynene.com) is one of many open cell foam manufacturers.

CLOSED CELL FOAM INSULATION

Closed cell foam insulation is known as 2 pound or high density foam.  It cures to a fully bonded, monolithic rigid form, providing increased shear and racking strength.  It contains millions of microscopic intact bubbles containing the reaction gas, providing higher R-value than open cell foam. Approximately three inches of closed cell foam will provide R-21 for exterior walls.  To accomplish the same R-value rating, open cell foam must be laid down at 7 inches with moisture permeation and inferior air penetration deflection.

Closed cell foam is naturally low in vapor permanence due to their cell structure.  Depending on the thickness, Closed cell foam insulation can be used as a vapor barrier.  Foam Lok (http://www.lapolla.com/foamlok-brand.html) and InsulStar by NCFI are both examples of closed cell foam (again, sold in bulk as spray foam, not in cans)

Although open and closed cell form insulation are commonly used in commercial and residential settings, some are inappropriate in specific applications. For example, you typically would not use open-cell foam below grade where it could absorb water; this would negate its thermal performance because water is a poor insulator compared to air and moisture may promote mold and/or bacteria growth. Closed-cell foam would be a good choice where small framing sizes need the greatest R-value per inch possible.  Basically, the choice depends on the conditions of each installation.

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISON

If you have smaller projects, like sealing up a door or window, a small dispensing can is the right way to go.  Click here for the product review.

SUGGESTIONS:

• Moisture moves due to differential pressures between the inside and outside of the structure.  Sealing up a structure may cause imbalance causing problems to building as well as to your health.  You may want to hire a professional engineer (not an architect or HVAC “guy”) to review your HVAC system. S/he should give you a recommendation to take the appropriate action (to either increase or decrease the size of your HVAC system).
• If you are spraying in a new construction home (pre-drywall), you may need to let the foam fully cured (no more expansion) before installing drywall to reduce any chances of the walls buckling or moving during season changes.
• If you have a small job, like sealing up a window, click here for product reviews.

REFERENCE LINKS:

RLC Engineering, LLC:  Opinion paper on the use of Closed Cell Polyurethane Foam

Oak Ridge National Laboratories:  Fiberglass Batts- Labeled vs. Installed Performance

FEMA’s Recomendation: Closed Cell Foam for Coastal Homes

The R Value Fairytale

Honeywell: Residential Closed Cell Spray Foam Insulation Facts

Honeywell: Residential Insulation Fact Sheet

How to Inspect & Correct Building Insulation & Ventilation

BASF – Comfort Foam

Easy to Use Professional Spray Foam Kits for DIYers

CertainTeed – Spec sheet for open and closed cells

CUTTING

Now that we have rough measurements, we can prepare for cutting. I have traced the window sill profile that I purchased from Somerville Lumber. I personally prefer cedar but you can choose any type of wood you prefer other than a pressure treated wood. You need to purchase 2″ x 8″ lumber in the length you need.

Unless it is absolutely necessary, I don’t like using pressure treated wood indoors because it might give off fumes containing VOC (volatile organic compounds). In edition, it is very difficult to obtain a pressure treated that is not wet. Wetness in wood means it is NOT dimensionally stable (may shrink when it dries) and you cannot paint over wet wood (paint will not adhere to the surface and will peel off).

Step 1: Check the actual lumber dimension
Step 2:  Cut the angles as prescribed in fig

Step 3:  Trim 3/16″

fig.7.1	fig.7.2	7.3
7.4	7.5	7.6

When you print the scaled drawing, you need to make sure that it is the actual size. If you don’t know how, read this article

If you came this page via search engine, you may first want to read How to Make Your Own Window Sill – Part 1

MEASURE THE SILL ANGLE

Having an accurate window sill angle measurement ensures tight fit with windows and more importantly minimizes water infiltration via wicking. Some replacement window manufacturers like Andersen has 3 sill angle choices so providing Andersen with accurate angle measurement will ensure good fit.

So what is the correct angle for a sill? In general, a window sill should have 3-12 or 3″/12″ slope or pitch for good rain drainage. 3-12 slope means that for ever 12 inches of horizontal distance (run), the vertical measurement (rise) is 3″. Looking at Table 1.1, this corresponds to 14 degrees of slope. There are three easy ways of measuring this sill angle:

1. Inclinometer; or
2. Torpedo level and 2 ruler sticks; or
3. Small Framing Square and 1 ruler stick

METHOD 1 – INCLINOMETER

An inclinometer or clinometer is an instrument for measuring angles of slope (or tilt). It is also known as a tilt meter, tilt indicator, slope alert, slope gauge, gradient meter, gradiometer, level gauge, level meter, declinometer, and pitch & roll indicator. Clinometers measure both inclines (positive slopes, as seen by an observer looking upwards) and declines (negative slopes, as seen by an observer looking downward).

In our case, using an inclinometer is the simplest and fastest way of measuring the angle of a window sill. You can buy one (fig.6.1 click here to read inclinometer reviews and recommendations), use a paper template (fig.6.2 - click to download the PDF template) or a cardboard angle finder (fig.6.3). The last two are provided free by Andersen Windows (To obtain the one in fig.6.3, I believe you have to visit one of their retail locations but call ahead to confirm that they have one in stock for free).

Please note that both mechanical or electronic inclinometers are far more accurate and can also be used in other settings (like when setting a blade angle on a table saw, etc.) whereas the paper angle finder is less accurate.

fig.6.1

fig.6.2

fig.6.3

METHOD 2 – TORPEDO LEVEL AND 2 RULER STICKS

Another method is to use a torpedo level and 2 small ruler sticks to measure the angle.

However, unlike the inclinometor, you *MAY* have to remove any exterior storm windows and storm window frames to get the necessary clearance to get the accurate measurement. Please note that if your window sill has 2 surface levels, the vertical ruler must rest on the uppermost level.

To calculate the appropriate angle, simply place 1 ruler horizontally (use a level) and read off the height from the second ruler.  You can then calculate the angle by looking at the table below.

METHOD 3 – FRAMING SQUARE

Another alternative method is to instead use a small framing square against the outside blindstop. This way you don’t have to fuddle around with a level and 2 ruler sticks. However, you are assuming that your blind stop is truly plumb (vertical).

Once you obtain the measurement, please use the table above to calculate the sill angle.

How To Make Your Own Sill – Part 3

As mentioned in the article, How To Make Your Own Window Sill, you do NOT need to buy one to measure angles. The article mentioned several “manual” methods to accomplishing the same goal.
However, having a small inclinometer comes in handy when the space is tight. In addition, if you purchase one with a magnets, you can expand the use such as adjusting the angle of a blade in the table saw.

I like this particular unit because it has no batteries to worry about and is sturdy. It even comes with a magnet to attach to metal surfaces. The only drawback is that the numbers on the gauge is quite small but a good addition to your DIY toolbox if you need have good eye sight.

This is the unit I recommend. It is very compact so it can work in some tight spaces (like measuring a window sill angle WITHOUT removing the exterior storm window frame). In addition, the unit has magnets that can attach to metal surfaces like table saw blades, etc. so that it can be used in lots of different situations. The only drawback is that it has delicate electronic components inside so DO NOT DROP IT. But for thirty bucks, it’s a great addition to your DIY toolbox

Maybe you could not find any window sills at Home Depot, Lowes, True Value or any other hardware / lumber stores. Or maybe you just want a challenge. Whatever the case maybe, if you are up for it, I can share my window sill template I created from my replacement part.

ASSESSMENT

There seems to be a widespread of using “window sill” to describe thewindow sill and window stool. Take a look at fig.1.1, fig.1.2, and fig.1.3to get a good understanding of how window frame is put together.

fig.1.1

fig.1.2

fig.1.3

The very first thing is to take a look at your existing window sill, both from the inside and outside.

Profiling the sill nose and other finishing touches can be done AFTER we remove the old window sill but the two most important parts to know BEFORE removing the window sill are the angle and thickness of your window sill.

Other than judging the condition of the window sill, it is very difficult to accurately gauge the sill angle just by looking at it so we will need some way to measure the sill angle.

We will obtain the sill thickness by measuring the exterior sill nose as well as from the inside by removing the window stool and apron.

PLANNING

MATERIALS

• 2″ X 6″ kiln dried lumber (or other sizes depending on your needs)
• 1 lb box of 2 1/2″ Deckmate screws
• Wood or composite shims
• Loose insulation
• Window caulk
• 1″ finishing nails

TOOLS

• Tape measure
• Table saw or circular saw (additional setup required)
• Inclinometer (to measure angles, you can buy or make one)
• 4″ metal drywall spatula
• Wonderbar / crawbar
• Claw hammer
• Mash hammer
• Router
• Jig saw

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

MEASURING OLD WINDOW SILL – THICKNESS

Step 1: Take your tape measure, go outside and take a look the bottom part of the window.  You should be able to see a protruding wood trim.  Take a measurement of the window sill nose.

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fig.2.2

fig.2.3

Step 2: Break the paint seal (fig.3.1).  Use a sharp utility knife to score between the quarter round- and side trim moldings.

Step 3: Separate two moldings (fig.3.2).  Using a hammer, gently tap the 4″ metal drywall spatula between the quarter round and side trim moldings.  Using a light rocking side-to-side, then up-and-down motions, gently create a small gap between the quarter round and side trim moldings.  Then find and mark finishing nails by sliding up and down with the spatula in between the gap.

Step 4:  Using a flat tipped craw bar (i.e. Wonderbar), gently pry off the nails, making sure to work all nail points little bit at a time (fig.3.3).  Of course if you don’t plan on re-using the quarter round molding, you can be less careful and just pry them off. Repeat these steps for the other quarter round molding.

fig.3.1

fig.3.2

fig.3.3

Step 6:  Now we need to remove the side trim moldings.  We normally do not remove these moldings when installing replacement windows but we need clear access to the window stool so we have to get it out. Use the same method as before to gently pry off the side moldings.  In order to remove the window without damaging the drywall, use the 4″ metal spatula as a backerboard against the Wonderbar.

Step 7: To remove the window stool, use a 3 lb mash hammer to gently tap the underside of the window stool (fig.4.2). A claw hammer is not recommended because you must strike it harder and it has a less surface area so it will damage the wood surface. Again, if you don’t plan on saving it, whack it away!

Step 8: Use the same method to remove the window apron (fig.4.4)

Please note that some window pictures may show drywall damages. That’s because I could not find ideal pictures from the same project so I had to “borrow” pictures from my kitchen remodeling project.

Step 9: Take the measurement. It should be approximately 1.5″ thick (fig.4.6)

fig.4.1	fig.4.2	fig.4.3
fig.4.4	fig.4.5	fig.4.6

MEASURING OLD WINDOW SILL – WIDTH

Now that the window sill is exposed inside, its a simple 2 step process to measure the width.
Step 1: From the inside, take the measurement from end-to-end (fig.5.1). Pay special attention to the side jamb and window sill. My side jamb was notched at an angle to accept the window sill (fig.5.2).
Step 3: From the outside, take the measurement from end-to-end.

fig.5.1

fig.5.2

fig.5.3

This is part 1 of 2 of the How To Make Your Own Sill article.Click here to read part 2.